Case cleaning find
 

Guys what do I do about this ?,I could pull the swarf off with my finger nails ,leave it or do what ?
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Ive tried MEK and all sorts to get rid of the old Loctite on the studs and through holes any other ideas ?
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getting there though ,should only take another billion hours and no skin left on my fingers
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pics dont show.

mm strange they show for me

OK work stasi firewall may have stopped them. Home now.

In the first pic that plastic exposed through the aluminum is entirely normal. It looks scary I know and I freaked out when I saw that but its on all of the 3.0s I've built. No worries mate.

WRT every little last bit that depends on how much peace-of-mind and how dry a motor you want. If this is for a customer or your are anal retentive (and I mean this in a good way) then yes, get it all off. A dremel with scotchbrite squares works well. I understand MEK also works well at both removing and at causing cancer. I personally avoid it and use alcohol (on the case and in my refreshments!)

Cheers John - its for me and my 1st attempt at rebuilding an engine so I am probably a bit paranoid but also have OCD :)
MEK wont even budge the old Loctite it seems to chip off easily but thats difficult to do without scratching a surface and getting off around bolt heads

Try cutting some scotchbrite pads into 1" squares and screw them into a dremel. Turn it up 1/2 way and try that. It will give off a lot of dust so use a mask and be sure to wash/rinse off everything out especially the oil passages to the squirters. You can tape them off to help cleanup later. You will go through a lot of pads but they're cheap so no worries.

Cleanliness now pays off later. Fixing a leak later can mean a complete rebuild, and a bit of locktite breaking loose later can end up lodging in a bearing or piston squirter failure. Both of which mean a toasted motor. Bad if you get stuck at the side of the road but worse if it ruins an event you've spent $15,000 prepping and entering (ask any number of Targa Tassie entrants over the years.)

You could try Locktite Chisel. I don't like to use it myself, but it does work.

Try tapping out the threads and use a rifle brush (a real one, brass or copper) on the smooth holes. Bore sponges for rifles and shotguns are very useful too, they are lint-free and do a good job at final cleaning. MEK is a very bad solvent, use something a little less dangerous for you (it causes cancer AND takes all the fat out of your skin). Try a bit of carb cleaner, typically works good for me on old loctite with a hard bristle brush.

Use aircraft aluminum paint remover. A nice snot like substance.

all sorted thanks Johns Scothcbrite and Billys suggestion of Loctite chisel worked very well,in fact I highly reccomend the Loctite chisel superb

Guys
is the oil by pass mod DIYable and what type of pump do I have fiited ?
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You have an SC type pump so you should already have the bypass mod. No changes are needed for these. If you don't have the venturi sump screen and the later pressure relief springs/guide then you should update those.

-Andy

Thanks Andy
just to be sure is this the factory update/mod then ?
This engine has always had very good oil pressure and was nice and clean inside
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another daft quetion is it safe to vapour blast the cams housings ?

I will keep talking to myself until im noticed :)
Bead blasted and in the dishwasher on heavy cycle
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Still undecided on spec might go 3.2ss depending on funds ,with the 2.7 crank it should rev well and make great power

Your wife is gonna kill you... dishwashers are great parts cleaners tho.

I have a rebuild coming up and will probably blast the "safe" parts myself since I have the equipment. The case and other items I have contacted a dry ice blaster to have have them do it. Getting quotes from others as well. Nice thing is... Dry Ice blasting can be used to remove anything and will not damage the material, they even use it on antique books at the right pressure they get no damage. Not to mention it evaporates, so no pesky grit left over. Just blast, give it a good spray-down to remove the chunks blasted off, and it will be pristine and like new.

Egad, don't start that dishwasher!

FIRST you don't want to contaminate your dishwasher with a bunch of carcinogenic heavy metals and whatnot contained inside the cam spraybar, which will probably get washed out during the cycle.

SECOND the soap you have to use to keep the dishwasher from overflowing will discolor the metal.

FINALLY if you want to clean the cam towers, OK, but be sure to drill out the spraybar plugs, pull the spraybars and clean them with a rifle brush, reinstall new plugs.

I pulled the plugs anyhow as ive read two recent threads of rebuilds due to gunge from not cleaning the spray bars
Out of interest the bars were clean as a whistle but the dishwasher wasnt worth turning on as it didnt get the parts any cleaner than my truck wash and a stiff brush
Ready to seal build the bottom end now just need to order some rods