My rebuild budget
 

My 86 (90k with Nikasils) is using way, way too much oil - about 400 miles/qt. I have owned the car two years and don't have any documentation, nor do I know the ownership history. The PPI didn't reveal anything, but I don't think the leak down was performed properly and have now discovered that numerical results alone are not a full proof method of problem detection. The valves are noisy despite being adjusted, so I am suspecting valve guides - no surprise. The oil pressure is great and seems to run cool. I expect once rebuilt, I will probably drive about 2 - 4,000 miles annually.

My original thought process was top-end only, after all we talk about how stout the bottoms are. As I read more and more, I began to think that I would at least change the rings, after all, it does have 90k miles. As I read lots and lots more, I am now thinking it makes most sense to split the case, after all, it isn't that much more work. Well, not that much more.

This is a pure street motor for a pure "unmodified" street car. I am comfortable with the amount of power the car makes in stock form, which I realize makes me an odd duck on this board. I just want a good, reliable engine. The car will be driven on the street and probably no more than one or two DE's a year.

My plan is to disassemble the engine and make final decisions once I can evaluate the individual components, though my budget is based on the P&Cs can be reused. I still need to do a compression and leak down, if for no other reason but to get a baseline.

I thought I would through my budget out on the board to get some feedback before I get underway this fall. Fire away and thank you.

Oh yeah, almost forgot, this will be my first engine rebuild.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1247882011.jpg

Lots of the things youre looking at on the list are part of the top and bottom gasket set.
Bruce

In fact all of the gaskets in the list are part of the engine gasket set, except rocker shaft seals. That is mentioned in Waynes book also.

I wouldn't buying new injectors, FPR or fuel lines just yet, you can have the injectors tested and cleaned, and only if they are not up to spec, consider new ones.

Not sure I'd bother with pricing out specific items on the heads. I sent mine to Walt at CE and he just replaced everything that needed to be done. There are a few shops that are highly trusted for this type of work, CE being one of them. Otherwise, I think you are pretty much on the money. I planned to just to a top end as well but once I got the p/c removed there did not seem to be much point in stopping at that point. To be honest, I wish I'd been able to just let someone else do it but now that it's done I did enjoy seeing the engine down to it's basic elements. Wayne's book is absolutely critical to pull this off successfully, IMHO.

Do you already have an engine stand and an ATV cart? If not, I would consider that in the budget too. And I did not see the crowfoot camshaft tool in there. You`ll need that. And a Z-block and gauge for setting the timing. Oh, and don`t forget about the beer budget too ;).

Thanks. I will review the specific items in the gasket set, that's good to know. I plan on shipping my heads to someone on the board to let them determine what does or doesn't need replaced, so good suggestion and I agree. I just stuck all new valves on the list to be conservative.

I wouldn't mind if someone else would do the whole rebuild and let me watch, because I am actually a little nervous that I will screw something up and there are lots of somethings to screw up. I just don't have the budget for parts and labor to split the case, so labor has to be donated. I am excited at the same time and plan to take my time (6+ months). I actually bought both of Wayne's books a year or two before I bought the car, plus I have Bruce A's book too.

I have both an ATV jack and engine stand. I replaced the clutch last year along with both the speed and reference sender.

Should I plan to replace the valve springs or can an expert evaluate them to determine if they need replaced? It seems they would suffer fatigue over the years.

Your machine shop that does the heads (porsche specific shop) will measure the valve springs. You can get a rebuild kit and that will include most of what you need.

-Andy

I'm certainly not an expert, but in rebuilding my 1978 911 3.0L, I did need the crowfoot. However, on my 1983 911 3.0L, I used a different cam holder. I believe this was changed in 1980 or 1981 if not mistaken. Fortunately, you wouldn't have to upgrade to the carrera pressure-fed tensioners...you already have them!;)

+1 for letting a pro evaluate your heads. I was very pleased with the work done by craig garrett on this board (username=cgarr) on my heads. He was able to reuse parts that were still serviceable. Prices were very reasonable. HTH.

If you're going to do ANY track events (like autox or big track DE events), I'd install a competition valve spring set.... Are you regrinding the cam to 3.2 spec or "964?" Either way, you'll need to send your rocker arms out for regrinding and rebushing too...

JB

I may do an occasional DE event, but not enough to build the motor for that purpose. I really want it for the street. I haven't decided on a 964 grind, but read a post of Wayne's from some time ago that he suggested that you wouldn't get a full measure of benefit with the motronic. Plus, my car has the stock exhaust, so that would probably negate any benefit.

I have a cam bar to lock the camshafts for removal, so hopefully it won't be too difficult.

I exchanged PM's with Craig. There are lots of great people on the board, I would like to support them all, but Craig is geographically closest to me. I hate to give UPS more money that the machinist. There is a local shop, but a) he wanted $600 for a valve job plus parts and b) he isn't a board member.

The only two people in the country that I would let touch my cylinder heads would be Steve W on the west coast, or Anchor atlantic in New Jersey. I have not had heads done by steve, but his reputation is second to none. I recently worked with Anchor on a 3.2 project, and when they sent my heads back they looked better than the brand new cylinders I used.

http://www.anchoratlantic.com/anchor_atlantic_enterprises.htm

NFI

I also had work done by Craig. His turn-around time is very fast too. Consider this in a rebuild. On my first rebuild, someone else did the head work, and 3 months went by before I got any parts back. Then, it was close to winter, and I had my car sitting in the garage even longer. Craig also re-bushed my Bilstein strut housings.