Turning over....by hand?
 

Hi All, i should have put this question on my other post about the through bolt seals. After standing back and looking at my master peace and thinking "oh s**t" my through bolt seals have squeezed out, i had ago at turning the engine over as it says in Waynes book, it does turn smooth,but i have to use a wrench on the front pulley nut, is this right or should i be able to turn it by my hand on the pulley?
Thanks

Rik

HI Rik
you should be able to turn it over by hand, looking at your sig' it is the 2.7 engine you are building?? Mag case, if so it could be out of line on the mains slightly, what where the old bearings like when you pulled it apart?

regards mike

Do you have a mag oil pump? My original mag oil pump from a 2.7 was very hard to turn by hand, I had to replace it. Also if the main bolts are over torqued this will cause it to bind. You don't have the pistons in do you? If all is well you should be able to turn the crank by hand, but if the rods are hanging loose they can hit the case.

Hi Mike, the old bearing were ok , just afew small marks on acouple of them, the engine had done about 100k on them since it was lasted opened, which was at about 35k by dick lovett back when it was about 3-4 years old. i don,t know why it was opened at 35k ,i have no invoices just a hand written note in the owners book.

I can turn it by hand,but if lefted for awhile it sticks and i had to put a spanner on the pulley,but after i use the spanner just to start it i can move it by hand easy, it,s not loose ,but i can move it by hand.

thanks
Rik

Hi 4sp911, my oil pump was fine , i could turn it by hand easy, the pistons aren,t on the rods and aren,t hitting the case, it just seems to stick when left, once it,s turning it,s ok and will turn by hand easy.

Once you throw the starter to it and run, you ll be good. Remember you have 14 points of resistance the length of the crank.
Bruce

Thanks Bruce.

Do you have a inch pounds torque wrench? See how much torque it takes to start turning. I had a cam that took a good bit of muscle to start turning, once turning it would spin free, so I thought it would be OK, turned out the heads weren't in alignment 5000 miles latter top end had to come apart and have the head re- flycut. Be careful this deep into the motor.

We'll assume the pistons are not yet installed, just the bare crank is at issue here. Also assuming the crankcase bearing saddles are straight and true. Did you line bore? Is the crankcase aluminum or mag? Is the crank straight? Are all the bearings correct and slightly lubed? If all is good, sometimes you have to alter the through-bolt tightening pattern so the crank doesn't bind. You should be able to rotate by hand. Easier without the rear seal installed though.

Sherwood

Hi 911pcars, pistons aren,t installed,it,s a mag case,the crank is straight, i didn,t have it line bored and all bearings are correct and slightly lubed. The crank will turn by hand easy,but does stick if lefted, i tried the torque wrench like 4sp911 said and put it on it,s lowerest setting of 9lbs and turns very easy and the wrench doesn,t click at all, it does,nt take much pressure with a normal wrench, it,s just that first bit to get it to move and then it,s easy to move by hand.

thanks
Rk

The first effort to rotate is called "sticktion". That's normal. Your situation sounds fine. Any binding at this point will result in excess wear to a bearing shell.

MHO,
Sherwood

HI Rik
please give me a ring, as I would like you to try something for me to see if it solves your prob' with the tight crank to start turning.

regards mike