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Exclamation well the car is now dead

sounded like rodknock, adjusted the valved and did all i could, engine went kaput on me today, so ill be pulling it out this weekend for the first time using the bentley book and the engine book by wayne....before the chaos starts, is there any tricks or tips you have for me in the engine rebuild department?? please help haha

Old 11-07-2009, 03:21 AM
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83 911 Production Cab #10
 
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Porsche Crest Get the corrections...

Make sure you get download the Corrections & Notes for the "How to Rebuild and Modify Your Porsche 911 Engine" book; How to Rebuild and Modify your Porsche 911 Engine: Corrections & Updates and good luck
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Old 11-07-2009, 03:52 AM
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Take lots of pictures for reference. Make sure you balance the engine when you remove it so it doesn't fall. Be prepared for a lot of oil to be left in it. Get the car up as high as possible.
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Old 11-08-2009, 03:49 AM
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Started at 3 yesterday and finished at 1:30 last night, that bentley book kind of sucks haha. I believe it's one of the valve springs.......any things to do while I'm in there? I It's a 1986 targa........also how heavy is that trasmission, I want to take it off the engine but I don't want it to drop to the floor, can two guys pick it up?
Old 11-08-2009, 10:02 AM
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Trans is about 135# but you have to have the short lever off the bottom so the trans can swing loose of the TOB
Bruce
Old 11-08-2009, 10:18 AM
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TOB? whats that? and I've got the engine and transmission out of the car, it's sitting on a dolly and I want to get the tranny off...........I think I took the lever off during the engine removal, That's one of the steps isn't it?
Old 11-08-2009, 10:22 AM
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Yes the lever comes off. Did you mark the splines where it was? The TOB means Throw-Out-Bearing.
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Old 11-08-2009, 11:01 AM
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No I didn't mark the splines......i thought it just goes in there and the lever should back= up as far as it'll go clockwise
Old 11-09-2009, 04:54 AM
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or aligns with the other little pole it's supposed to slide on to the right of it
Old 11-09-2009, 04:54 AM
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You will have no problem lifting the transmision on your own. Unless you have an issue with your back or something.
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Old 11-09-2009, 11:47 AM
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How far are you going?

Are you just planning on repairing what needs done to get it running again? or are you going to start down the slippery slope of "While I'm in there"

I'm in the simple replacement / rebuild of my 87 engine It's virtually all new inside and I think I'm at a reasonable $6K so far. and there's a lot more to go.

Richard
Old 11-09-2009, 02:20 PM
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I dont have the wallet for going willy nilly on the engine, I discovered I need a new clutch as I was taking apart the engine today and that's going to hurt enough, Unless there's any cheap "while your in there"'s out there I'm missing, maybe rear main seal and engine temp sensor.......
Old 11-09-2009, 04:42 PM
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SO the absolute best case ever:
you dripped a valve into a piston, stopping the engine from running:
This is a blessing over the rod knock situation because you don't have to split the cases, and can just close your eyes and pretend all the bearings inside are in good shape, hope the rod isn't bent, and therefore saving you $1000.

So dropped valve:
One used cylinder and piston: $75-$200 (Depends on which type)
One side all the gaskets : $150ish
one new set of rings: $40
one used cylinder head: $100-$200 (People don't like to split up sets)

so $400 to $700 could get it back running.
But WHY did the valve break? weak spring? Possible
Poor casting? unlikely
Worn out valve guides? Yeah, really Likely. and may mean one of the other cylinders is next.
Mis adjustmet = contact with piston? possible. But you would know that within minutes after adjusting the valves.

New Valve guides and associated machine work on the Heads $600-$1000 more\

And then at a VERY minimum, make sure the lower studs are not Dilivar. $10 each x 12 = $120 more.
Dropped valve? minimum $400. Likely as high as $1800


But you also mentioned you think it' a rod knock:
So best case ever for needing to split the cases:
One rod is knocking, and everything else in the motor is fine.
This is a complete teardown and re-assembly,
PLUS
Buying one differed rod. Guess at $50
Machining the crank to one size under size on that journal ($250 min $400 likely)
Buying the seals and gaskets from our host: ~$300
One new undersized rod bearing $40

so $640 to $1000 as the absolute positively best case

Add to that the Likely needs replaced list of other thing needing replaced when you split the cases (Rings, Rods, mains, Orings, 12 new head studs minimum) can be between $2000 and $3000 :

Porsche prices SUCK!
But hopefully it helps you figure out what you are getting into.

Richard

Old 11-13-2009, 05:39 AM
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