I spent about two hours addressing the short fuel hose coming out of the bottom of the fuel regulator. See link below. I have to get the motor off the stand, install the exhaust, attach trans and back it goes where it belongs.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/537511-fuel-reg-short-hose-solution.html#post5302570

Hi Greg,

Did Cgar find any conclusive evidence, in particular #4, on the valve guides or valve seats?

I am looking to purchase an 89 coupe with similar results on leakdown, except the bad one is #5 at 14% loss. The mileage is 99k, similar to yours. I agreed to purchase based on proper repair (replacement of valve guides) and a close inspection of #5. I am encouraged, though, that you didn't find anything wrong with your #4.

I should probably have the mechanic open up the case to replace the intermediate bearings as well. How did you know you needed to replace those?

Great thread by the way. You did one hell of a job. :)

Thanks,
Alfonso

I don't think it is realistic to have someone open up the case to replace just the intermediate bearings. I think we call that a rebuild. ;)

Ed, I hear what you're saying, but I would try to do as Greg has done with his engine. If things are in spec, then just put it back together so that it can run as is for 2 to 3 years.

It would be kind of a punt, if you will. In 2 to 3 years I would want to do things right, maybe do 3.4 or 3.5 rebuild like on your Ruby. Maybe even install PMO injection. Ti con rods would be the cats meow!! Ahhhh, back to reality. Need to get my 911 first. :)

My non-professional, personal opinion is that if it aint broke, don't fix it! I'd say it is more like a Hail Mary than a punt-lots can happen when you open up a case.

Alfonso - I don't know what caused the poor leak down on #4. I don't think bad guides would cause it. The only thing I can think is that one of the valves was too tight and not fully seated. I have my own leakdown tester, so I will recheck before I put the motor back in the car and post the results.

The intermediates are generally showing brass on 3.2s with mileage (+50k). Is it necessary to split the case to replace them? Well, that's up to the individual, your budget, time, future plans, etc. The main advantage to splitting the case is to confirm the condition of your crank and mains. If you don't have documentation showing your car was well cared for its entire life, you don't know if it was run with dirty oil. I look at the crank and bearings will answer that question. I was told that if the mains are good, the rod bearings are probably good, so I didn't touch the rods.

All of your decisions are probably dependent on what you are going to do with your motor. I don't track my car, so my motor has a comparatively easy life and I chose to only address my most pressing issues.

Thanks Greg. I look forward to your update when ever you get around to it. I know your fingers must be itchin' to put this thing back together...the weather is just beautiful down here in Texas, should be up there too.

Ed, I guess there are two schools of thought when inspecting critical components. The first and most common is open it and replace/repair what you can because you're there.

The second is open it, check things out and if in spec AND if it was working fine when you took it apart, then put it back together right and it should work as good as before.

I used to always subscribe to the former. But recently I took a new job and have been working with an old foggy of an engineer, and he definitely subscribes to the later. We work on multi-million dollar machines, compressors and turbines, with slightly more complex bearing systems. This guy has been at this one plant for 34 years and has established an impressive track record with putting these machines together and the machines will run for years, just as they are supposed to. So, if it works for those machines, then it should work for a porsche engine.

I am new to this school of thought and don't know much about putting porsche engines back together, but I cant wait for Greg to get his car going. I'm betting it will run for a long time. :)

Top End and Reseal - Done!
 

Well, six months and probably 200 or so hours, I am done. I was relishing all the last minute tasks that actually prevented me from facing D-day, but I knew today was the day. Cranked the motor to build some pressure, then stuck in the plugs and DME. It started almost instantly. Minor amount of smoke. I ran the motor at 2k+ per Wayne's book, but after 5-7 minutes the temp gauge indicated that motor was nearing previous normal operating temps. From this point I took a relatively brief drive following Motor Man's formula of 1/2, 3/4 and full throttle blasts to 5k rpm (which Wayne supports). I ran the car for another 15 minutes hard on and off the accelerator. By the time I got back home, there was no visible smoke from the exhaust. One hour after returning home, no oil drops under the car - feeling pretty good right now.

I would have never attempted the project without Wayne's book which organizes the project nicely, and the support of the board. Hard to thank everyone, but would be remiss for not identifying Flat6pac and Cgarr. Also, thanks to the some of the people that assembled killer threads like CBRacerX for The Complete Engine Sealant Thread, and all of the professionals that have shared their secret sauce.

Here are a few photos of motor coming off the stand, then into car and finally in car. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1273282360.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1273282383.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1273282417.jpg
Thanks again

Congratulations Greg. Job well done!!

The final product is what you wanted, polished and clean and you know whats there, it doesnt get any better than that.
And in time for the summer.
Congrats,
Bruce

Awesome job Greg!!! Great inspiration!!!

Greg,
Awesome job!!! Inspirational for me with my first rebuild coming soon.