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You can buy a NEW 3,2 pump if you insist, and remove the pipe, and put the old pipe on from an SC.
There's nothing wrong with a good used oil pump- you can easily remove the four M6 (10mm ATF) nuts and disassemble the pump to verify that there is no catastropic gear damage, inspect the case (the end of the case can be sanded on a surface plate or sheet of glass to reduce end clearance if it's too much) and clean the pump thoroughly. This is precisely what I did when I put an SC pump in my 2,0. I think a good used was about $225, and when I took it apart, it was perfect. |
We have good updated/rebuilt pumps in stock.
We disassemble the pump, inspect, replace any parts that don't pass inspection and then modify the housing for increased flow. On most pump that is a 15% improvement. I would avoid using any of the early mag pumps (even the "late 75-77" 2.7 pump) because magnesium hates heat and when hot, it expands creating huge clearance issues inside the pump. That is one of the reasons why many mag engines have very low pressure @ idle. As for Walt's idea of testing pumps, we did that back in the day with a lathe and pump jig. It gave us pretty accurate numbers about flow and pressure and allowed us to measure our pump upgrade. The biggest issue was heating the oil to get truly accurate operational numbers. This equipment is long gone but the test information still lives in my head. Sometimes I think it would be nice to reboot and loose some of that crap floating around in there. Cheers. |
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Regards Mike |
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