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jgparker's Avatar
 
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Location: Melbourne FL
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ARP Vs. Raceware Rod Bolts

Anyone have an opinion on who makes a better rod bolt, ARP or Raceware? Specifically, this if for a 2.4/2.7 rod on a mild race engine. My last engine blew due to stock rod bolts, so I want the hear about people's experiences with both. I found a very old thread indicating quality issues with one, but may not longer be valid. Henry, do you make rod bolts too?

Thanks,

JP
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Old 01-08-2010, 02:14 PM
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ARP, only!!
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Steve Weiner
Rennsport Systems
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Old 01-08-2010, 02:55 PM
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Is there something about raceware rod bolts that isn't good as ARP?

I'm asking because I have the receipts from the previous owner of my car, an '87 930 and when the top end was gone over 30,000 miles ago they put in raceware rod bolts.

They cost more than ARP so that little detail makes one think they'd at least be as good.

Has anyone actually had a problem with them, and are they reusable like ARP?

thanks.
Old 01-08-2010, 03:49 PM
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Raceware says they are reuseable, if the relaxed length is still within a specified amount of the original length. Based on this I have reused them on my 2.7 race motor where they met this spec, with no issues. This engine saw (and occasionally sees) 8,000 rpm, though I took to shifting at 7,600 based on gearing and torque curve.

This is a sample of one, you understand. I've had to undo rod bolts a couple of times, mostly due to an engine explosion unrelated to bolt failure, but such things are hard on everything, and cause the unfastening of things which might have gone on a long time as they were. And I was not able to purchase just a couple of new bolts, when most still measured OK.

When first I bought Raceware bolts - 1995 or so - ARP didn't make these, as I recall, so I wasn't faced with a choice.

The Pauters I now have on my shelf came with ARPs. I'm not going to change that.

Walt
Old 01-08-2010, 04:18 PM
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Are stock bolts that bad in a hot street 3.0?
I have a set of new stock bolts and nuts in my rebuild stuff box.
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'67 Bug, 2600cc type 4, 102mm X 78mm nickies, JE's, ARP, SDS-FI w/crankfire, 911-901 transmission, long term project that's 98% done.
'67 Bus, 2.0 Gene Berg T1 complete kit engine that I built in 1991, my summer DD
Old 01-08-2010, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Henry View Post
Are stock bolts that bad in a hot street 3.0?
I have a set of new stock bolts and nuts in my rebuild stuff box.
Stock bolts are OK; just don't turn the engine 7K and be careful about rev matching on your downshifts.

OEM bolts simply stretch until they yield and offer nowhere near the clamping force of the ARP's.
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Old 01-08-2010, 07:35 PM
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Stock bolts seem just fine in a 3.0 with a stock engine but aftermarket exhaust. I just saw a dyno sheet from one (Euro spec, meaning the big ports and 9.8/1 pistons) with 203 hp at the rear wheels.

I am pretty sure most of these engines used in Club Racing use the stock rod bolts. My US spec 3.0 does. Since there is no point in running these engines up to 7,000 rpm before shifting (my best shift point is about 6,300), I don't see where there is much reason not to use stock stuff.

On the other hand, if you go to carbs or EFI, big cams, more head work, lots of high RPM HP, and you drive it like that on the street, well that may be different. You should, with enough $, be able to pull 300 hp out of a 3.0. Of course those are maybe 100 hour engines, if that.

Hot is not exactly a precise specification. But my take would be that anything much over stock HP makes the peace of mind of better bolts worth considering despite the extra cost.

But the guys who build engines for a living will have a better basis for an opinion.

Walt
Old 01-08-2010, 07:44 PM
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It's a 914 ...
 
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Almost the same setup as Walt mentions. I have a 2.7 race motor with ARPs and I shift at 7500 with short bursts to 8000. 50 hours and counting ...

Scott
Old 01-09-2010, 02:00 AM
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Hmm .

If you can guarantee never to catch 3rd instead of fifth, in anger..you have me beat .

David
Old 01-09-2010, 03:26 AM
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Thanks Walt and Steve.
By hot street a mean I'll have a 79 3.0, mahle 9.7CR pistons, 40 webers, a street grind cam (TBD) and maybe twin plug just because of the pistons. The rest will be mostly stock.
I don't want huge HP or lumpy cams as it's going into a narrow body 914 that I want 100% street drivable. I want 200-220HP, pulls like a truck and reliable.

I almost bought this engine, I'm building one almost the same:
3.0 dyno day - a pleasant surprise

Maybe one day it will see an AX or DE, but I've never bothered with one yet.

Sorry if this is a hi-jack, still about rod bolts though.
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'74 Porsche 914, progress on a 3.0 hotrod build, 40 Webers, Web 120/104, Mahle RSR (style) pistons, Jarvis/MSD Twin Plug
'67 Bug, 2600cc type 4, 102mm X 78mm nickies, JE's, ARP, SDS-FI w/crankfire, 911-901 transmission, long term project that's 98% done.
'67 Bus, 2.0 Gene Berg T1 complete kit engine that I built in 1991, my summer DD
Old 01-09-2010, 03:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve@Rennsport View Post
ARP, only!!
Steve,

For 2.2 S rods, how does one fit the ARP bolts?

Thanks
DanB
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Old 01-09-2010, 05:31 AM
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Thanks for all the feedback. ARP is it then. They appear to be much less espensive than the Racware bolts anyway, and I'm trying to keep this refresh to a reasonable cost.

By Mild, I mean 9.5:1, single plug, 2.8, carb, S-cam, about 240hp, shifting at 7200, (7500 at Daytona). That and my driving habits kill the stock rod bolts last time.

I'll probably take it to 10.5:1 this time, since I can run race gas.

Thanks for the help,

JP
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Old 01-09-2010, 05:57 AM
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