Seans 71 2.2 liter rebuild
 

Hi a Newbie here , doing my first Porsche rebuild. Bought Wayne's rebuild book and have been lurking on this forum for a while. Attached are a couple of pics to show what I was starting with. It's a 71 targa with a hard top, steel flares in the back, and a 915 tranny. It had been parked out side under a tarp for about 6 years.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1264795203.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1264795261.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1264795294.jpg
My goal is not to have a perfect car, just an occasional driver. After rebuilding the carbs and replacing all the gas lines brake lines etc the car ran ok, but leaked oil like crazy and seamed to run a little on hot side, so after a few short trips I decided to pull the engine and rebuild mostly to get rid of the oil leaks, now that is is apart, I figured I might as well do the top end. I currently have the engine torn down to the short block and am looking for a good machine shop for the heads. A couple that are near by are "Costa Mesa R&D Automotive Machine" or "Costa Mesa Machine Shop". I was wondering if anyone on the forum had dealt with either of these shops or could recommend a good machine shop in south orange county. I will post some pictures of the engine soon, I don't have them on this computer.
Thanks,
Sean

Okay, here are a few more pics. I discovered my cooling problem. It was the field mice that I had living under my fan shroud.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1264808492.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1264808611.jpg

I also discovered that I had mechanical chain tensioners.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1264808701.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1264808720.jpg
It appears that the case already has case savers installed, and I found no major problems with the heads, pistons or cylinders. My current plan is to have the heads cleaned, new guides/seals installed, hone the cylinders, clean the pistons, re-ring, and reassemble with new gaskets.

and hydraulic tensioners with safety guards because the mechanicals that you have are only correct once in a heat cycle.
Bruce

update
 

Here is an update. I am nearing completion of the build. I didn't split the case. Just did a top end refresh, and replaced every gasket and seal that I could reach. Re used the cylinders and pistons, new rings, heads rebuilt. The engine ran well before the rebuild, it leaked and wasn't cooling properly (obviously)http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1301534688.jpg

now for the bad news
 

I was torquing the right Cam sprocket and the cam broke. Didn't even know this was a possibility. The cam other wise looked in good shape, no pitting, some minor scratches on the bearing surfaces.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1301534917.jpg

Sympathy pic of my daughter with Wayne's porsche at southern california lit meet show. I scored a left heat exchanger at the swap, anyone got a right they want to sell.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1301535356.jpg

You were quite fortunate to have your cam break when it did. If you look closely at the picture of the broken cam, not the small piece, you can see the beginning of a stress crack. Probably from heat and fatigue. If it had broken while running, all sorts of bad things would have happened.

Mark

Yea, I was thinking the same thing. It's hard to see in the picture, but the edges of the broken piece were discolored, like the crack had been there a while. It broke at well below the proper torque setting.

I have had that happen. Sometimes the cams just suck...

Next time I am back in L.A. I have a right side heat exchanger for you..

Cheers
Scott

Send the cams to John Dougherty. HE can clean up that edge and then drill and tap for the late style allen head cam bolts. Simple to fix. You might ask about a different grind while you are in there.

Or just source another T cam. Cheap and easy to find.