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building a M64/50 1994 turbo motor
Hey, I am currently refreshioning a 1994 3.6 liter turbo motor that I bought from Brumos last year. Just tore down the motor and it appears that they only put some "hot" cams in the engine. Putting some new rings in. I want to go back with ARP rod bolts and head studs. My mechanic says that the engine has never been fired. It was an extra engine for a Hillclimb car they built years ago. What upgrades would you suggest for me? I am not a professional engine rebuilder and would like some input. Porting? knife edge the crank?? Boat tail the mains?? I want to build a very dependable engine for a street/track car. What would you do???? Cost to performance analysis....thanks. tate
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Set of rods- if you ever want to push the engine really hard, you are going to want them. I would shuffle pin it and not waste the money on boat tailing- I did it on my motor and it is an expensive do nothing mod on a low rpm application. How about larger oil squirters for the pistons? Or maybe a gt3 pump? I also suggest port + polish- I imagine with the better cams that she could breath much better with some porting.
Just suggestions- I would definitly not put that motor back together with out a set of Carillos or Pauters or if your wallet permits, Pankle Ti rods :) A 3.6 motor with good rods can make pretty giant numbers when converted to EFI. My vote would be: shuffle pin, rods, porting, larger piston squirters |
Thanks Kris. This is the kind of info I was looking for. tate
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M 64/50 3.6 L turbo Case crank and cylinder mods
Here are some pics of the Case mods: shuffle pinning and boat tailing. The crank was micro polished and the main was grooved and cross drilled. Ollies did all the work. I decided to do the "windage" mods to the case and the cylinders. I.E. Boat tailing the mains and Mooning the cylinders. I understand that these mods are for high rev motors. I want to see if they make a difference in a 3.6 L turbo motor. We hand finished the boat tails just like the factory race motors. I also saw a case at the Brumos Racing Engine room with the same treatment. The last pic is of the "sister motor" to mine. Don Leatherwood was kind enough to give me a tour of the Brumos Racing Engine room. I bought this motor from the Brumos Race shop a few years back. Enjoy
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1306506845.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1306506875.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1306506918.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1306506972.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1306507000.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1306507093.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1306507119.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1306507187.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1306507816.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1306507882.jpg |
No knife-edged crankshaft?
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What injectors are you going to run? Also what ignition system? |
Thanks for the responses. I must say that this car is going to be a 80% street and 20% track car that I do not plan to rev over 7,000 rpms. I currently plan on using a K27 HFS from Kevin. I want to retain the CIS and want to keep this motor as close to Brumos race ready as possible. They were running a very outdated Garrett turbo that I will not reuse. I want a conservative and reliable 450-500hp. I don't want to get too greedy.. Tate
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F. Scott Fitzgerald once wrote that the rich are differenty than the rest of us. I'd modify that to say that turbo guys are different than the rest of us.
A modest 500 HP for a street motor. Right. I recently asked a turbo guy if his engine really dynoed at 1000 rwhp, as I had heard claimed by others. Oh, no, he said, nothing like that. The best I ever got was only 910. Only, indeed. Walt at Buttonwillow |
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