Cam timed, new idler arms,and buttoned up
 

Took a while, but I finally timed my cams (s/c grind from "camgrinder") on my 3.0 930 over the weekend and installed a set of Supertec wide bushing idler arms. These arms are of exceptional quality and fit. I'd recommend them to anyone who's still using a spacer and narrow arms.

Here's a few pictures

Setting up:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1279733420.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1279733488.jpg

Wide bushing arms...very nice
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1279733535.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1279733564.jpg


Double checking over and over
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1279733887.jpg

Buttoned up.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1279733910.jpg

When using mechanical tensioners to put tension on the chain while timing cams when you're going to be running oil fed spring tension chain tensioners in the motor, how do you know how much to tighten them so the tension will be the same as the oil fed tensioners that will be in the running motor? and how do you get both sides tightened and tensioned equally?
Even worse if you use big C Clamps or the big double C welder/fabricators vice grips on the tensioners like the pelican engine book suggests.

I just don't understand it. I know several professional engine builders around here and when the motors are going to be run with spring tension oil fed chain tensioners thats what they have in there while timing the cams, and that makes total sense to me.

The oil feed pressure does not increase tension on the chains. The spring inside makes all the tension on the idler sprocket and chains and the oil only dampens them.

I think the idea is to just take the slack out of the chain, anything more than that is starting to bend things. So the amount of tension is just enough to take out the slack and not much more.

Lindy