911 2ltr T engine rebuilt
 

High I am new here I been lurking on this forum for some time,I am a long time
911 owner\driver.

I am in the process of refreshing my 69 T,the engine got 80000 miles on it, does run good,however it does smoke blue on startup then clears when warm,it also has a oil leak at the crankshaft pulley end,its not the seal,it appears to be the o-ring thats on the seal retainer.I am looking for a good engine re builder?

I am looking at Moto Masters Website are they any good?

Also does some one offer long blocks on exchange?

I would like to get some feedback on reputable engine builders.;)

Cheers
Walt

Motormeisters are scammers. Avoid them like the plauge.

Research, research, research............check & re check any potential engine builder. I wish I had when I was doing my 1st engine. I'm wise........now. Where are you located??

Steve

73 911T MFI Coupe, Aubergine

Walt,

Your 911 engine is a relatively easy DIY project. There are several procedures you want to contract to the best vendors.
All the rest, including assembly, you can do yourself with help from this Forum.

I agree: Research Research Research.

There have been many well documented Pelican rebuilds.
Search Pelican.

You should buy Wayne’s How to Rebuild and Modify your Porsche 911 Engine book Pelican Parts.com - How to Rebuild and Modify your Porsche 911 Engine
and Bruce Anderson’s Pelican Parts.com - Porsche 911 Performance Handbook
Porsche 911 Performance Handbook, 3rd Ed.


I’ll encourage you to make your own engine ‘Workshop Manual’. You can download the Porsche Parts information (called PET) or buy the $10 CD. Pelican Parts.com - Porsche Parts Reference CD-ROM
Use the exploded diagrams to organize your parts and the replacements. There are ‘outlaw’ workshop manuals on the web but finding an original 911 Factory Workshop Manual is very desirable.
The Bentley 911SC manual and Haynes are also useful.
Pelican Parts.com - Porsche 911 Carrera Service Manual, by Bentley Publishing
Pelican Parts.com - Haynes Automotive Repair Manuals




Where are you located?
There are probably Pelicans and PCA members who can help.

There are quite a few vendors who are honest, do great work and will give you good value.
MM is not one.

You are going to want to have your crankcase inspected, updated and possibly repaired.
The four main updates are jackshaft bearing inserts, piston squirters, oil bypass mod and cylinder head stud inserts.

You will want the crankshaft and connecting rods professionally inspected.
You will probably want to have the crankshaft polished and the connecting
rods reconditioned with new wrist pin bushings.

You will want to measure your pistons and cylinders.
I suspect this may be worn. The question will be: Are they repairable?

The heads should be sent to a vendor for new valve guides and a precision valve job.
You have single valve springs. The standard dual springs are readily available good used.

You will want to clean/rebuild your carburetors.

The distributor needs to be services and run-in on a distributor machine.

The engine oil cooler can be sent out and ultrasonically cleaned.

You will probably want to install a new clutch.

Most of the remaining is simply cleaning, inspecting and refinishing.
No doubt you will find something else to replace.



Now: The Slippery Slope.

You will be tempted to make ‘improvements’.
Don’t.
Build your engine back to basically stock configuration and reasonably close to new condition.

If you want ‘improvements’ to go faster, start with another engine.
A MFI 2.4T is a good starting point.
A good-used 3.0 or 3.2 is also an option.

Starting with a good used 2.4T engine allows you to take your time with your 2.0T engine AND keep your 911 in service and properly ‘exercised’.


If you are absolutely determined to not DIY, there are quite a number of honest, highly skilled and experienced builders on this Forum.

DIY is very satisfying.

Best,
Grady

Geez Grady, could you be any better as a stand up guy!!! What an example for all of us and I personally thank you for all of your help. Its guys like you that make Pelican and the Porsche community the best!!!!

2,4 ltr option
 

Thanks for all your input on this

I have a 1973 1/2 T car also,its in exceptional condition only 51000 miles

and running perfect,it has PMO,s its stored right now.

Question could I bolt the 2,4 straight into my 69?

Will the 69 - 901 transmission fit onto the 2,4 without any mods?

Fuel and electrics are no problem.

I am doing a RS conversion on the 69 right now and I would like to run

it next summer,dropping the 2,4 into it would be good it needs to be run

to stay healthy. :)

That would give me time to find a 3.0 ~ 3.2 engine for my 69 project,

the longterm plan is to put a bigger engine into the RS clone. :D

I might shelf the 2.0 ltr altogether for now.

Next question what additional components do I need to install a 3 ltr engine into

my 69 project car. ;)

Cheers
Walt

Walt,

There are a few Pelicans in Calgary and Edmonton.
You are ‘just up the road’ from me.
I drove Denver-to-Edmonton for a CanAm in 14 hours once. :D


Consider installing both the 2.4 engine and 915 transmission in the ’69.

That should be an easy swap with PMOs.

You will want to swap the ’69 engine wiring harness and alternator onto the 2.4 so everything attaches without modification.

You will need to use the ’69 oil cooler with the screw fitting and the ’69 engine-to-tank oil pipe. Be careful of interference between the 915 clutch cable end and the oil pipe. That pipe is probably aluminum and it won’t take much to put a hole in it.

You will need the shifter and shift rod from the ’73.

You can make an adaptor/extension for the backup light switch wires.

You will probably need to ‘massage’ the rear seat sheet metal above the front end of the 915 for clearance. P-1 (BFH) works well.

I’m sure I have forgotten something.


With a 3.0 or 3.2, you will need a 915 or larger.


Best,
Grady

Can Am Oh the noise!!!
 

Thanks Grady ;)

Those where the day's,the last Can Am race I attended was 1972 at Hockenheim\Germany.

Leo Kinunen won in the yellow Bosch sponsored 917\10 Panzer,
motor sport was never the same to me after that race.Much later I realized
I saw history in the making,sadly it all ended soon after. :confused:

Cheers
Walt

Please keep the original engine with the car. Even if you swap it out, keep the original engine on a pallet. If you ever decide to sell the next owner will be VERY happy!

Yes that's the plan I am going to keep the 2ltr engine and trany for later days.

Cheers
Walt

Walt,

I’m concerned that your ’73.5T engine and trans might not find its way back home in your 51000 mile chassis.
Not worried, just concerned.
A 911 with that low miles needs to stay original – or very easy ability to return.
If you don’t have the ’73.5T CIS, I can help you with some pieces – for free.
I’ll encourage you to have the complete system available.


You might consider building a 2.7RS clone engine over the winter.
Find a 2.4T MFI and build it into a 2.7RS MFI.
Not too difficult to do and is not a mystery.

Twin ignition helps running and reduces octane sensitivity.
The RS P&Cs are 8.5:1 CR so fuel isn’t an issue.
You can (very carefully) bump them to about 9.3:1
If you want to get carried away, find some RSR 92 mm P&C and build that 2.8 to 11.5:1 and use race fuel. :D

Search around on Pelican.
You will find almost every flavor of these engines having been built.
PM / email the owners and inquire about satisfaction, effort, issues and cost.

This is a pretty straightforward DIY with vendors available for the machine work.
There are also quite a number of very skilled professional builders. Some regularly on Pelican.


Also, with 2.7 (or 2.8), you can still use a type 901 or 911 transmission.
Much nicer driving than a 915 - and fits your ’69 chassis.



My trip to the Edmonton CanAm was as volunteer crew for Jo Siffert and his 917.
One of the most startling memories was of the Mini Cooper race (perhaps 100 entrants).
Going into turn one, six-to-twelve abreast, it was like “Tittly Winks” with a dozen Minis ‘popping out’ and rolling across the grass.
Comical and no one was injured.

Best,
Grady

Thanks for the tip

Don't worry about the 73T,I am getting a nice 3.2 and gearbox package,I am not gone break up the 73T, its to good for that,I even regret having blackened the chrome on the 73T,but thats reversible,that car is so easy to turn into a 100% original,I am well aware of its historical value,I still have the CIS in a box,it just gave me to many problems.

Anyway The Can Am race in Hockenheim was the European "Inter series",it was the same cars as US side however with European sponsors and drivers,it run under the same ruling as Can AM north America.
Search You tube for"Inter series" there is lots of footage of it.

Funny est race I have ever seen was the "Renault R5 Stock Cup" back in the 70s at Hockenheim,the grid where 30 or so cars,1/4 of them rolled on the first corner!!!:D
Anyway at the end of the race there where only 6 cars left crossing the finish line,
I am not making this up ;) The Renault R5 Stock Cup,despite being a mediocre car,drew large amounts of spectators,for obvious reasons. :D

Cheers
Walt