Zalex test stand...
 

Was thinking about buying one does anyone have one if so if you could show some picks I woulds like to see some differnt set ups..

Engine stands, you can get them to run but how does the stand put them under load?
Bruce

Just for a baseline start not looking to tune engines on the stand..

engine stand
 

Granted you will need to refine your tuning, under load, but I have found an engine stand to be very useful, while rebuilding engines or trying out new configurations of intake/exhaust, etc. You can tune them, do the initial run in, check for leaks, repair, debug wiring, set up EFI for initial maps, etc. with the engine on the stand.....while access is easy. I use mine a lot. Here's a pic of the fire up of my prototype EFI set up. This engine is now installed in an IROC clone.
regards,

Al

YouTube - Porsche EFI kit - fire up

Al...great job on your engine injection/fuel & control set ups...!!

Can you either pm me or email me or reply here as to how or where you got your engine stand set up...??

I totally agree with you that a stand like yours is fine for initial set up & prep of engine to go into the said car... a engine stand w/ the flywheel/liquid filled restrictor torque controlling stands are a different set up to break in engines & apply load ect...

Thx,

Bob

Bob,
I bought mine from Costco about 5 years ago for $300 or so. It is designed for V8's, but I modified it to accept the 911 engine mounting support (by bending two 6" long bolts and inserting them in the existing supports and by hanging a 911 bellhousing off of the rear supports, an oil tank off of he side support, etc.

I Don't think that Costco has these anymore, but this one is very similar.....

Larin Mobile Engine Testing Stand - Auto - Engine - The Garage Store

PS: I am going to weld up a nicer version of this, add an engine brake (water or?????) and attempt to make a simple garage dyno.

Regards,

Al

thx Al...pm sent to you
Bob

Hi Al...had a chance to answer my pm to you last week...?? I understand w/ the holidays & such...

Thx, Bob

If you are going to use a water brake that will absorb 200HP then you will need about 20 gallons per minute water at 50psi for a constant loss system and a bit more if you recirculate. A Kahn 301-130 would be good or there is a company called Land, Sea and Air that make interesting units.

If you recirculate the water then you will need a cooling tower which will need biological control to avoid Leigonella.

I would also think you will need to bolt the frame down to the ground to deal with the torque reaction. The load cell and torque reation arm needed will also need some means of adjusting to keep it level and remove errors.

An Eddy Current Brake is possibly easier to manage but again will need water cooling and I think a 200HP unit will still need 20 gpm but at a slightly lower pressure.

Telma Truck retarders may be an low cost alternative but I think you would need to connect them via a gearbox to reduce the input speed.

I think Peter Dawe uses a Stuska dyno (or three)

Stuska Dynamometers - Water Brake Engine Dynamometers