Planning an that. The Smart Racing equivalent uses a simple retainer clamp bolted to the cam tower I think. I plan to copy theirs. Easy peasy!

So far, it looks like a m18 x 1.5 O2 sensor plug will work to plug the oil holes. I have one laying around and should fit fine. I just have to have the hole drilled a tad deeper (couple mm's) and then tapped. By doing it this way, if I or someone else wants to go back to stock, it will be easy to do. I have the tap but I think I'll have the machine shop do this for me. It should only set me back $40 bucks or so. I need to have the lower Dilivar studs removed and replaced with the steel ones at the same time anyway.

Well, you need proper ducting, and even then there will still be less flow than free-stream due to the significant restriction. Some air will "pile up" (stagnate) in the ducting and then take the path of least resistance around the cooler.

To disable the thermostat all you have to do is remove the steel cap on the bottom end. It just pops off like a bottle cap. After that the guts fall out and you have a nice aluminum housing to install back in your engine. I don't think you'll have any need for a fan if you have air ducted to a good front cooler.

-Andy

Block off plate options:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1295369001.jpg

91-92 965 turbo) 930 107 105
993) 993 107 105
959 / Air craft engine)959 107 105
And the ever popular, machine it yourself.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1295369018.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1295369052.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1295369066.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1295369085.jpg

I like it! Mine will be SLIGHTLY more elegent... only slightly though. :D
Thank you for taking the time.

I'll post up some photos of mine when I get it done for the benefit.

One more thought: The early fan shroud works best when using a block off plate.
No ducting for the cooler. Just cut the intake openings to fit the head configuration and make a simple plate to direct the air around cylinder #6.
see picture
Here is a modified 3.6
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1295372497.jpg
2.0 Potus engine
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1295372586.jpg
914-6 race engine
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1295372662.jpg

Nice........ aircraft engine parts! Thanks for sharing the pictures Henry. Machine it yourself certainly does the job if no oil filter is desired!

Just in case anybody does a search for the part numbers;

993 part = 993 107 057 00
965 part = 930 107 057 01
959 part = have no clue, way out of my league!

Currently the 993 part is 1/2 the cost of the 965 part.

The 959 / Mooney aircraft engine part is 959 107 053 01. They have 6 in Germany and today's price is $1,532.92. Get yours quick, just like gold, the price is going up.
Cheers
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1295369066.jpg

No offense to the OP, but you don't know for sure that you have a problem yet. And even if you do have a leak, by no means are all leaks terminal. At $65 invested, you have plenty of headroom before you're throwing good money after bad, IMHO.

If you'd prefer a delete plate to a cooler, perhaps you could sell the cooler you've got for what you paid for it, and do a quickie delete plate in your own shop from scratch? If I didn't already have two spares on the shelf, I'd be tempted at that price.

Edit: just realized you probably have the later, non-threaded oil cooler. Dunno if those are worth beans. Cut away! :)