Just Getting Started: Engine to Stand
 

What should the "state of the engine" be if I am putting it on the stand for a full teardown?

Currently the pressure plate and flywheel are connected.

Thanks,
Alex

IMHO it's a good time to loosen the flywheel bolts when the engine is on the ground. If your engine stand/yoke is HD you can do the rest of the disassembly on the stand. Of course the more you remove on the ground makes it easier to get the engine up to the stand, less weight.

If you don't have it already, you should buy Wayne's book: How to Rebuild and Modify your 911 Engine. He covers all the basics such as this.

Pretty sure you that if you can install the engine holding fixture around the pressure plate you should be good to go from where you're at now. I just started my rebuild and when I mounted mine, the pressure plate, clutch disc, etc had already been removed so I was looking straight at the flywheel.

Its far more easier to work on the motor once its on the stand so I wouldn't spend much more time trying to strip parts off at this point.

Is there any reason to leave the flywheel on the engine when on the stand at all? I pulled the whole clutch and flywheel assembly off when it was on the jack and easy to get to.

I have Wayne's book. AFAIK, there's no discussion of what should or should not be on the block when it's mounted to yolk.

My thinking is in line with "eastbay" (hey, I went to MVHS a hundred years ago, my wife went to SRVHS): why not take the pressure plate and the flywheel off? I'm all for getting the engine on the stand to work on it there, but it seems like the yolk would potentially interfere with the PP and the flywheel, so why not get that solved right up front?

I am missing something?

I took my flywheel off on the stand (pressure plate removed beforehand). The advantage is you have a flywheel lock when loosening the flywheel bolts. A key point is to have it mounted on the proper yoke using the proper flywheel allen mounted on an extension routed through the center of the yoke. Don't cut corners by using substitute tools as they could be soft; get the proper items from our host.

Dave

On engines with the 915 type clutch, I always pull the pressure plate before mounting. I've found that the ring gear sometimes get hung up on the engine mount yoke making it impossible to turn the engine.

I usually leave the flywheel on the engine when mounting. The engine stand provides a firmer base allowing more torque to be applied to the flywheel bolts.

Well, you cant split the case with the flywheel on, there is 3 case nuts behind it.
Bruce

As I understand it, you can use the flywheel lock without the engine on the stand?

Also, thanks everyone for replying. My plan (barring additional input from the collective brain trust) is to pull off the pressure plate and flywheel, then mount the yolk to the engine, then use an engine hoist to lift the engine to the stand. Hopefully, that will get accomplished this weekend.

I think I have the flywheel allen socket, but I will check.

To recap:

The flywheel lock - some people have one that works with the yolk, most people have one that's independent of the yolk.

Wayne's book has a picture at the beginning of the teardown section showing the engine mounted the stand with the pressure plate off but the flywheel on.

Later in the same chapter, he has another picture (and explanation) showing the pressure plate and flywheel still on, and he discusses how to remove them.