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Piston oil squirter............

I have been working in making the piston oil squirters (???) spray oil for a couple of days now and 2 out 6 are having some clogging problem. Application of Seafoam injector cleaner helps a bit but one looks really stubborn.

Worst case scenario, one has to be replaced. I've never installed or removed one. So how do you replace an oil squirter? Any suggestion, tip, or recommendation is highly appreciated. Thanks.

Tony
Old 04-26-2011, 09:23 AM
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Remove with a slide hammer. Touch up with a hand reamer to remove any burrs from the previous peen. Clean with a q-tip and acetone. Roll the new one in red locktite press in and re-peen.

t
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Old 04-26-2011, 12:04 PM
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Turn your case so the squirter points down. Add Seafoam to the galley that leads to the squirter and let it sit there overnight. Block off the passage from the main galley (through bolt hole) with a piece of rubber hose and apply compressed air to the main bearing oiling hole and blow air through the squirter. It will pop when it lets loose and you'll see a nice fan spray come out.
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Old 04-26-2011, 02:23 PM
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That's what I did..........

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Originally Posted by lindy 911 View Post
Turn your case so the squirter points down. Add Seafoam to the galley that leads to the squirter and let it sit there overnight. Block off the passage from the main galley (through bolt hole) with a piece of rubber hose and apply compressed air to the main bearing oiling hole and blow air through the squirter. It will pop when it lets loose and you'll see a nice fan spray come out.

lindy911,

I have done exactly what you have suggested. The squirters at 4-5-6 cylinders where the oil galley is located are all good. But the ones in the other crankcase halve (cyl. 1-2-3) except #2 are having flow problem. The Seafoam injector cleaner has some what made an improvement for cyl. #1 oil squirter but not with #3. I have extended the soaking test for another over-night test.

The problem with #3's squirter aside from being clogged is the spring is stuck and not working like the other 5 ones. Piston #1 squirter is still partially clogged but has improved from earlier condition. Definitely #3 has shown some mechanical defect aside from the clogged line. Thanks.



The engine stand on the left is the Mainely engine stand set-up that many of you have seen at Hershey last weekend and the one on the right is my old Harbor Freight stand with factory yoke. Thanks.

Tony
Old 04-26-2011, 08:05 PM
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I too thought there was a mechanical problem with one of mine when I cleaned them. I used the Seafoam as described and it broke free. One thing you might want to try is a bolt long enough to go all the way through the through bolt hole with washers and rubber gaskets cut from an old inner tube under the washers. With a nut on one end, tighten up the bolt with washers and gaskets to seal the through bolt hole. This procedure will let you apply more air pressure to the oiling hole in the main journal web. Worth a try.
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Old 04-27-2011, 05:20 AM
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Great idea.........

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Originally Posted by lindy 911 View Post
I too thought there was a mechanical problem with one of mine when I cleaned them. I used the Seafoam as described and it broke free. One thing you might want to try is a bolt long enough to go all the way through the through bolt hole with washers and rubber gaskets cut from an old inner tube under the washers. With a nut on one end, tighten up the bolt with washers and gaskets to seal the through bolt hole. This procedure will let you apply more air pressure to the oiling hole in the main journal web. Worth a try.
lindy,

I have actually plugged the thru-bolt holes with rubber stoppers and held them in place with a C-clamp. This method works well for the 4-5-6 cylinders which have all good 'squirters'. This technique would not work for the 1-2-3 cylinders because of the way the bore to the squirter is located at the very edge of the hole by the shoulder mating area (surface). I have no difficulties applying high air pressure into the thru-bolt hole, it is that there is one particular squirter that refuses to allow air passage. It is almost plugged by something (dirt or grime).

My last resort after cleaning and pressurizing them have failed, would be to replace it with a new unit. Two (2) are already on order from Pelican parts sales. Thanks.

Tony
Old 04-27-2011, 09:57 AM
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Don't be shy follow the advice given by Tadd. Its really a simple job if you use good tooling carefully. If you do make a mistake oversize ( diameter) parts are available. I really don't understand why these are not replaced as a matter of course even though they ae expensive .

I've just done three with three to go after spending litreally weeks trying to unblock with no real success I could rely on.

andy
Old 04-27-2011, 10:26 AM
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Waiting for parts........

Andy,

I already ordered two (2) oil squirters from Pelicanparts and they are in transit. Just waiting for these and will pull the old squirters out. I've been purging it with Seafoam and compressed air and no visible sign of improvement. The other one that was questionable has shown some improvement. Thanks for the encouragement.

Tony
Old 04-28-2011, 05:04 AM
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Why not use straight solvents like paint thinners or MEK if you can get it? Seafoam is watered down solvent. Hit it full strength!!!
Old 04-28-2011, 06:10 AM
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I'm not so sure about Seafoam being a watered down solvent. It's designed to be added to 20+ gallons of fuel to remove varnish from injectors. I watched it eat fuel varnish from Weber float bowls instantly when applied raw from the can. It's the only thing that opened my squirters after many tries with just about everything else.
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Old 04-28-2011, 08:37 AM
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My point is Seafoam has only 1/4 to 1/3 Naphtha in it. The rest is oil and other ingredients.

So, I'd think straight Naphtha would be more powerful.
Old 04-28-2011, 10:14 AM
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While I'm waiting for the parts........

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My point is Seafoam has only 1/4 to 1/3 Naphtha in it. The rest is oil and other ingredients.

So, I'd think straight Naphtha would be more powerful.


Tippy,

Thanks for the tip!!!! I got a pint of MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) in the garage that I used for cleaning the crankcase mating surfaces. I'll give it a shot. If this fails too, then extraction is the other option. The 5 other squirters are all working fine now except that of cylinder #3. Will keep you guys posted.

Tony
Old 04-28-2011, 06:40 PM
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Hope it works out for you!
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Old 04-28-2011, 07:15 PM
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MEK solvent saved #1........

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Hope it works out for you!

Tippy,

Piston valve spray #1 was partially clogged and Seafoam did not completely removed the clogging. However, an over-night soaking of MEK did make it spray nicely. Very happy about the result. However, the other problem with #3 was not resolved. So I decided to pull out the stubborn (bad) piston valve spray (aka squirter). Thanks for the tip.

BTW, use MEK in a properly ventilated work area and avoid inhaling the fume/mist. While it is a very good cleaning solvent, it is not good for your health.

Tony
Old 04-30-2011, 05:42 AM
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that should be handy

http://www.pcarworkshop.com/images/6/68/1013_1997_61017geolab.pdf

and it is more emphasized in the 993 workshop manual
Old 05-06-2011, 07:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boyt911sc View Post
Tippy,

Piston valve spray #1 was partially clogged and Seafoam did not completely removed the clogging. However, an over-night soaking of MEK did make it spray nicely. Very happy about the result. However, the other problem with #3 was not resolved. So I decided to pull out the stubborn (bad) piston valve spray (aka squirter). Thanks for the tip.

BTW, use MEK in a properly ventilated work area and avoid inhaling the fume/mist. While it is a very good cleaning solvent, it is not good for your health.

Tony
Yep, that stuff will attack your liver!
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Old 05-06-2011, 09:26 AM
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