I'm next !
 

I have been bustin' arse on a bunch of maintenance on my recently purchased 76 930. This weekends project was to pucker up my butt cheeks, pull the valve covers check the condition of the head studs, and adjust the valves. Pulled lower covers first, cool , no broken studs, cams look perfect. Pulled upper cover, found someones MAC shorty wobble extension, when I stuffed the magnet down there to fish it out, out came a barrel nut with a 3" piece of dilivar stud . Found one stud missing on the other side as well. I will get started next weekend. I may even pull it out this Sunday, we are going to a concert Sat night, and will not get home until 2 am, but I don' party anymore, and I should be up early ready to rip into it. The motor looks as if it was apart recently. I will be splitting the case, as I also have an oil leak at the # 8 main o ring. I will post as many pics, as I can, this will be my first 930 motor, and the first time I have seen an early 3.0 apart, so I am kind of excited.

Exciting!!! I remember being in your same situation.

Each step of the rebuild was kind of like a boxing match for me. Who is going to win this next round? Me or the engine?

I finished my rebuild.... so I guess I won??? Until the next match. :D

Glad you are taking it this way :)

Out of curiosity (I know; Curiosity killed the Cat...) did it had a Compression or Leak Down before the purchase?

You should plan to replace all 24 Dilivar studs with steel studs

Agreed, question is do you go for the Supertec, 993TT or Raceware studs?

factory studs will do the job..
Bruce

Only the lower studs are divlar.

On the 3.0 Turbo, both upper and lower are Dilivar. That is why FastFred found broken studs on the upper side.

Thanks for your input guys. Well, I got home at 3:00 am last night, and even though I did not drink or participate any other shennanigans, , I feel like I partied with Keith Richards . I guess us old guys just need our sleep. So no motor drop today, I just got up to the shop a few mins ago, and I have to move some stuff around to get the 930 up on a lift, and then I can get started this week. Since this is not paid work, it will get done evenings, and weekends, but I hope to keep pace with Bruce, this should go pretty fast.
I have used steel studs on most of my rebuilds so far, with good results, but not so sure which way to go being a turbo motor. Most of the stuff I have built so far has been either stock, or mild hot rod motors under 10:1 compression.
The more I look at this thing, the more it looks as if it has a fresh top end. The cylinders a super clean, the heads have that fresh out of the bead blast cabinet look, and I can see fairly fresh 574, so I am curious what I will find.

Fastfred, you ever considered APR head studs & bolts?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307381582.jpg

+1 on the ARPs.

It's an investment, but so is your time and I believe your motor will go the distance with ARP.

Supertec , or ARP. Is what I am leaning towards. I guess I just need to get it apart, and see how many big decisions I have to make. I am hopeful not too many. If I find a cherry lower end, and good pc's, then I am on easy street.
I am 90 % out. Just have the shift coupler , and speedo wires , and out it comes. I should be looking at a crankshaft by Sat evening.
I had the car on the lift last night, and was going to start,but decided to clean up my work area first. 4 hours later, my workbenches are clear of the remnants of the last 20 jobs I have done.
I also just found a big 930 oil pump that I almost forgot I even owned. I cant see any reason not to use this pump , can you? I am under the impression the early turbo's used an SC like , or 2.7 pump, not the big one.

I will see you Saturday AM Fred. I'll be interested to see the innards of a turbo.

Made some good progress tonight, and got some good news as well. Finished up pulling the motor, and stripped it down to the longblock. Was happy to see an aluminum clutch that appears to be in pretty good shape. I'll measure it up, but will probably re- use it. Clutch worked flawless with no slippage, or chatter. Some play in the release fork shaft, and throttle linkage bell crank bushings are gone. To be expected.
I gave it a quick leak down before shutting out the lights for the night, and it looks as if my budget just may get easier to swallow.
#1= 1% #2=4% #3= 4%, #4 = 16 %, and with a quick tap on the head of the valve , went down to 2% #5= 5%, another quick tap on the valve , down to 3%, and #6 was 19% all of which coming out of the head gasket right at the broken stud. This is on a cold engine, my experience has been that leakdown % is usually higher on a cold motor.
This car ran excellent , and honestly made no smoke, not even at startup. Oil pressure was normal, so this may just be a quickie. I get to do all the cool work without writing the all the big checks.
I am thinking of measuring up the pc's, and valves and guides, and if all is in spec, I may not even re-ring. If the heads need resurfaced, then I will have a valve job done anyhow.
Should finish up Tear down Saturday, but my just get ambitious and stay late tomorrow night again.
I still have to split the case, the biggest oil leak it has is right at the # 8 main o ring. I found a bunch of permatex surrounding that area.
Will post of some pics this weekend, right now is just another dirty longblock