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-   -   Replacing Thru Bolt O-Rings (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/618710-replacing-thru-bolt-o-rings.html)

930LDR 07-11-2011 03:32 PM

Replacing Thru Bolt O-Rings
 
So I sealed up my case this weekend (for the second time). Followed the methodology suggested by Henry. Used his sealants, viton green o-rings, and Dow Corning lube on the rings. I still managed to muck up a couple of the rings up under the Acorn nut washers. On four of them I can just see a tiny bit of green poking out from the edge of the washers.

Now that the case is sealed up and cured, should I have any concern over removing the questionable bolts (one at a time) and replacing the o-rings? No RTV to be concerned about (this time around).

I'm guessing that with all the other bolts and perimeter nuts torqued down and the bearing webs glued together I shouldn't be risking much in throwing off the main bearing clearances if I take them one at a time.

Thanks in advance.

PFM 07-11-2011 03:51 PM

Rob,

Not a pro on this subject but best cure for the sealant is after 72 hours. As hard as it is to get a case to open I would think no problem with one bolt at a time. I will be watching to see who else chimes in on this one. I would still wait the 72 hours for the main web sealant to get "good".

Agai not a pro just reading the Loctite docs well.

930LDR 07-11-2011 04:27 PM

Appreciate it. Case is in SF and I'm in Oregon until Friday... no problem waiting out 72 hours!

MBruns 07-11-2011 05:13 PM

O rings
 
My guess on your squeeze out is that on some cases they did not chamfer the through bolt hole in the case, I have seen the same engine with half that had sharp edged holes and the rest were as they should be. without it there is not enough room to compress and seal and it has to go some where, I have used several means to add the chamfer from by hand with a countersink to a custom tool in the mill. Check yours and see what you have.

Mike Bruns


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