broken head studs
 

I have searched the forum and found several threads about this.

Seems like welding a nut on the stud is a selected choice.

I have tried this method, but the stud is broken all the way down to the case, with only a small bit sticking up.
When welding I was only able to weld on top of the stud, but this was not strong enough.
New bits of stud just came off

Here is what it looks like.

http://img801.imageshack.us/img801/1623/img3430o.jpg

Is the only solution to drill it out?

Have 2 studs like this

The engine is a 79 3.0 SC

Studs
 

If that is the lower stud, and it looks to be and its dilivar, prepare yourself to disassemble the case to have a machine shop set it up on the mill and drill it out, they are hard as glass and you need a solid carbide drill to deal with those, been there and done that many times, I have repaired many that tried to do it freehand and its ugly. I have tig welded nuts to the broken studs and then heated the case to release the loc tite and thats the only thing that may work with that.

Mike Bruns

Tig weld a nut to it if there is room if not sharpen a bolt to some what of a point and tig weld that to it. Put some heat to the case and it should back on out. I have lost count of how many we have done this way.

Hi Mike,

Nice to hear from you.
Yes, it is the lower stud, and looks to be dilivar studs.
One lower on one side, and 2 lower studs on the other side.

Will take your advise and disassemble the case then.

Will give TIG weld a try before disassemble the case

Turbo
 

How is your turbo project doing, I didn't see that it was you til after I sent the post

Mike Bruns

Hi Mike,

My turbo build went fine. Thanks again for your help in sourcing all the parts and ship to me.
After I had the local mechanic gap the piston rings, I assembled the engine and was driving very careful with no boost until I had the car in the Dyno (Dynopack) for fine tune.
We ended up making new fuel and ignition tables rather than starting with the one I had.

After I compared the new and the old tables, I saw that the new fuel table was a bit richer all over, and new ignition table more restrictive.

Ended up with 505 rwhp and 635 rNm torque at 1,1 bar

Engine is running great on both street and track

HEAT is your friend

Strip the engine down to a short block and have the studs removed using EDM
(Electric discharge machining). Try a company that removes broken taps.
If you can manage to keep the case clean inside you're good to go.
I have my doubts about your ability to "keep it clean" but it's worth a try.
If at that point you choose to take it apart, the studs are already removed.
Good luck