Fuel injection reassembly
 

I bought a 3.2 from a Pelican to do a 4 to 6 conversion on my 914. I wanted to go for a different look on the engine so I broke down the fuel injection, removed the powder coat, bead blasted and then sprayed with Gibbs. I like the plain aluminum look. I took a lot of pictures when I took apart the FI so I'm pretty sure I can get it all back together but I don't know torque specs, if I need lube or thread lock on the studs or other specific details for reassembly. If there is already a good thread or threads, please post. There are always tips, tricks and best practices for doing something like this so please let me know your thoughts and suggestions. If I need to include any other pics or details, just tell me what to do. Thank you all, mark


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Much better than the tarted up look.

Why not just order our host's How to Rebuild your 911 book (something like that, easy to find on Pelican). It will answer all your questions, and most of the ones you come up with in the future. For sure it has torque specs, though nothing I recall about lubricant on the 3.2 intake.

Though I'd say no - a rubber boot is a rubber boot, and lubricant is not called for in other 911 applications. In fact, I'd think one would want to avoid it, as you don't want these things slipping off.

The bright colors worked with his race car but not with my street car - not that you see much of the engine in a 914. I didn't mean I was going to put lube on the aluminum intake but was thinking more of the studs that hold down the intake and some of the other parts. I don't want to have the studs get corroded and break next time the parts are removed. I was told Wayne's rebuild book didn't cover the fuel injection but since I haven't even seen the book, I don't know if that is true.

You are right - it doesn't go beyond the SC, mostly. But engines are engines. No one bothers to lubricate fasteners where torque is not critical. Critical parts are rod bolts and case through bolts and head studs. Those are what are subjected to the terrific forces of combustion and of a large heavy assembly reaching the end of its travel and having to reverse direction.

Corrosion is not much of an issue on the intake side. Not as hot, not exposed to road splash, etc. But if you want, anti seize isn't going to hurt anything, and it's not going to screw up the torque you apply by hand tightening with typical length wrenches (smaller ones are shorter for a reason).

The other engine stuff doesn't matter all that much. I've never bothered to use measured torque on intake stuff. Waste of time, and some of the nuts you really have to use an open end wrench on, or a box end if you are lucky, anyway, typically. Speaking of carbs and similar manifolds, that is. And the CIS, for that matter.

But if one were to obsess, you could use any torque value you found for intake 8mm nuts on studs, which you will find in the book. You could also get the Bentley for the 3.2. Different deal from Wayne's book, but lots of useful information if not in quite as friendly (and color photographed) format.

i would absolutely put a copper-based anti-seize thread lubricant on all threaded fasteners for the exhaust system. i don't do this to help ensure proper torque values so much as it is wishful thinking that the bolts/nuts will come off without damage then next time it is disassembled.

My questions are:

1. What is Gibbs?
2. What media did you use to blast with?

Gibbs = gibbsbrand.net
Glass bead

Coarse glass bead or fine? I have some aluminum housings that I want to clean up and yours look great.

Thanks

By the way, it looks like your picture shows the intake runners on the opposite sides from where they go. The throttle butterfly valve will aim away from the engine fan. The Idle Stabilizer is bolted onto the side of the intake closest to the engine fan.

Yes, I was wondering when someone would say something. All the parts are just sitting on the engine, nothing is bolted down. I'm replacing a broken fin on the alternator shroud before I reassemble.

Please be sure and make doubly sure you have all the glass beads out of the intake. I know someone who did this (not me) and didn't. A pocket inside had some of the abrasive and it went into the motor after about 25 miles.

There is no tq spec for these in Bentley. I used normal tq for an 8mm nut- I think this is the size off the top of my head- in the 18 ft lb range, IIRC. I actually think I went to 19.5. But, I've had a couple of drinks for happy hour!

When I recently put in my 3.2 I observed residual fuel leaking from a crimp on the Y-branch line that goes under the intake. It's possible that the line had dried a little and shrunk as a result from sitting allowing the leak. Maybe refueling would plump them up. Who knows - I wasn't taking any chances and replaced them. You can also get them rebuilt, as they are expensive. I've heard of other cases of these lines leaking, and if so the engine has to come out.

Once they leak, there is no "plumping up". Good thing you replaced.

If you mess up then at least there is plenty of room to work on fuel injection is a 914. I have had my head in a 914-3.2 engine bay for long periods of time!


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How come? Doesn't it work right?

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