Removing Head Studs
 

Hello !

Rebuilding my 83 3.0 SC engine
What's the best way to remove the head stud ?
What tool is the best ?
Heat ?, How much ?

Regards Øistein :)

Oistein

The Snap-On head stud remover with an impact gun works very well. 8 out of 10 studs will come out without heat. A little map gas heat on the spigot walls to melt the thread-locker will free up the stubborn ones.

On the broken Dilivars, I use a die tap to cut threads on the broken end and then use the Snap-On tool.

Head stud removal
 

Thanks, I'll try your method SmileWavy

Regards Øistein

hei Øistein,

Also you can tig weld a nut on the broken stud + a lot of heat. Works well

whoops double post.......

Before you go and round up some specialty tools and so forth, put a couple of M10 x 1.5 nuts(double- nut them, which means tighten them against each other) on a stud and check how tight the stud(s) currently are. Just put a normal wrench on the lower nut and apply a bit of effort to see how tight they are.

Reason I say that is because you might find your studs are looser than you think. For instance my recent teardown on my "3.0" revealed all 24 studs are dilivar (and now are souvenirs) that all came out w/out a fight at all. No threadlocker was used and no heat needed. All I found on the base threads was some seriously stinky paste.

Not saying my instance is necessarily commonplace. I would consider my instance rare. Just saying that it's worth a bit of investigating before assuming you need the tried and true stud remover and heat method.

It's a bit of a lottery with these studs.
I recently pulled mine and found all came out easy with a standard stud remover except for two that where in there that tight I snapped them. I applied heat for about 10 to 15 minutes the the spigot which made it Alot easier. The broken dilivar studs where removed by my machine shop, they managed to weld onto them somehow to remove and charged me nothing seeing as they were doing other work for me.
Most important advice I can give is have patience with these as it's very easy to get the s###s and use all your brute force which will lead to more dramas.
Good luck.

FWIW,..ALWAYS use heat to melt the locktite that anchors the studs. This method really reduces the chances of a broken stud and saves wear & tear on the case. Mapp gas torch works fine as does oxycetylene (carefully)

JMHO, of course,....:)

I used a plain old pipe wrench on mine (1978 911, 3.0 L). Worked great. I found I needed heat on only 4 or 5 out of 24.

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/8877221-post87.html

Brett