wood engine stand?

[juanbenae]

with more time and carpentry skills than money i am considering building a stand to do the tear down. i will be doing motor work this winter where i will be taking it down, shipping parts for machining n the like then having another reassemble at a shop with a proper stand. anyone done such a thing? will base it from a 4 caster moving dolly and use some old carpeted jet ski trailer planks to carry the block. run those just inside the the case side of the oil return tubes, as wide as say, the sump plate. other bracing that can be shed when the heads and such are being removed.

any examples, or other like ideas?

t

[HawgRyder]

The problem with your idea is the inability to rotate the engine.
Go with the proper tool and perhaps an engine stand that has 2 front legs (that way you can run the engine on a lift right up to the support tube with the engine yolk attached).
You will find it much easier to tear down and rebuild using this.
Bob

[JohnJL]

As Bob says, you will save yourself much more time, effort and backache if you are able to rotate the motor around. Things like getting the circlips in the pistons and adjusting valves are much, much easier when you can rotate the motor into a comfortable position.

[fanaudical]

I would have been in a lot of trouble without a rotatable stand. You could put an ad in the classifieds for a stand & yoke and get several hits.

[Scargo2]

While I'm sure the yoke and being able to rotate the engine would make it easier. I made a simple wood engine stand that worked. When I simple it was just 2 - 4 X 4's with three 1 x 4's screw to the bottom. The 4 X 4's were cut the length of the heads. And they were screwed together with the right stagger from the cylinders. I found the 4 X 4's would be high enough to clear the center seam of the crankcase, in fact a little too high, so I put about a 1/4 X 1" strip down the center so that it would hit that seam. So the weight was distributed on the three surfaces. I drop all the exhaust pieces then position this stand on top of a hydraulic floor jack and lifted it into position. I took the weight off the motor mounts, unscrew them and lower the jack. I put 2 loose 4 x 6's on the floor so when I lowered it down i could get the jack out. A helper is good to have to balance it on the jack and keep an eye out for things getting caught. Take one side at a time apart . The weight will stay on the center strip and the remaining head while you work on the one. There is enough room to get the oil tubes in and out as needed. It worked for me. The only improvement i may make is put some smooth rubber strips on top of the wood to hold and cushion it a little better.

[ZOA NOM]

Toby, you can borrow mine if I get my motor back together in time for the P@P races in October. I've got it torn down to the case now, and may not need to split the case after all. I'll need a new piston @ cylinder, but the rod and bearings seem fine.

[juanbenae]

Originally Posted by ZOA NOM

Toby, you can borrow mine if I get my motor back together in time for the P@P races in October. I've got it torn down to the case now, and may not need to split the case after all. I'll need a new piston @ cylinder, but the rod and bearings seem fine.

thats very good.... the motor news that is.. it'd be great to see it off the stand for no other reason than to have you back in the paddock.. see u in oct n we'll talk.. mine wont need a stand til then



While I'm sure the yoke and being able to rotate the engine would make it easier. I made a simple wood engine stand that worked. When I simple it was just 2 - 4 X 4's with three 1 x 4's screw to the bottom. The 4 X 4's were cut the length of the heads. And they were screwed together with the right stagger from the cylinders. I found the 4 X 4's would be high enough to clear the center seam of the crankcase, in fact a little too high, so I put about a 1/4 X 1" strip down the center so that it would hit that seam. So the weight was distributed on the three surfaces. I drop all the exhaust pieces then position this stand on top of a hydraulic floor jack and lifted it into position. I took the weight off the motor mounts, unscrew them and lower the jack. I put 2 loose 4 x 6's on the floor so when I lowered it down i could get the jack out. A helper is good to have to balance it on the jack and keep an eye out for things getting caught. Take one side at a time apart . The weight will stay on the center strip and the remaining head while you work on the one. There is enough room to get the oil tubes in and out as needed. It worked for me. The only improvement i may make is put some smooth rubber strips on top of the wood to hold and cushion it a little better.


pictures? blue prints?

t