Webcam 104/102 cams, anyone using this grind?
 

Thinking about these for a 3.0 liter with JE pistons and carbs. Anyone had any experience with these particular cams?

I think you mean 120/104? I have these in my 3.2SS race engine I recently destroyed and I installed them after seeing the solid performance in a friend/mentor's 3.3L N/A (100mm bore with SC 70.4mm crank) race engine.

Before the engine took a dump shortly ago it was really strong and I didn't even have it completely fine tuned yet in terms of ignition timing and carb tuning/jetting. Good cam for exactly what Webcam says they are- club racing or hot street.

They're a good cam.

I wish it was a set of 120/104's but it is 104/102. I just got off the phone with web cam and it is not on there list but they said it is the same as the solex cam. I probably need to start a new thread about the solex cam on a 3.0?

You have a line on a set of 104/102 for a good price? I think the typical application for the Solex cam upgrade has been on the smaller bore engines?

You could always consider S cams or modified S. I had a set of 149s Webcams which was their S profile. Nowadays I believe their S offering is called 171e/149i and is a modified S. My 3.2SS made good power and pulled strong to 7500 with the old Web 149s. So that would be a good choice for you to if you decide/find out that the Solex is not a good match for the 3.0L. Lots of overlap and lift makes it have considerable top end performance

Thanks Kevin, The reason I am looking at the solex cams first of all, I have a set, and second their numbers, (at least to my untrained eye) are just a little bit milder than the S cam. The lift and duration of the solex cam is in between the E cam and the S cam. This seems to me that it would be a very "streetable " cam for a 3.0 liter motor. The only thing is the lobe angle is lower like the S cam. I need someone with way more knowledge than me on this one.

Well the S cam becomes more streetable in a 3.0L with its bigger displacement. My understanding from the pros is that the "peakiness" of the S is diminished with the bigger engine. So while a 2.0L is rather weak on the low end and really screams on the top end, a 3.0L doesn't suffer from that nearly as much. I won't lie though. My engine was slightly anemic below 4000 rpm. Power came on very strong after that.

So if the Solex is more of an in-between cam between E and S, I think you'd be in pretty good shape for having a strong street engine. The lobe angle is not a problem for your carbs. With carbs/individual throttle bodies, you can handle cams with a lower lobe separation angle, which is the same as saying more overlap. The overlap is what gives you that cammy loping or thumping at idle. Think of a muscle car V8 with that lumpy bluh bluh bluh bluh sound at idle. The common plenum (single throttle body) engines like CIS and 3.2L Motronic typically do not tolerate more overlap and that's why you see the performance cams for those stock-ish engines still maintaining the 113 degree lobe separation angle. I believe the cams with more overlap/less lobe separation create intake reversion for those common plenum and the engine doesn't want to idle very well at all.

I have the 104/102 cams in a 3.2 SS .... Great low end power and it still pulls strong up top too

i have solex's in my 2.7 with RS p&c's (8.5 CR)

- built for vintage racing, (on advice of various gurus who frequent this forum) about 10 yrs ago -

not a good combo - high winding but no torque under 3000 - short on HP

- too close in overlap for low CR (now say the gurus) - they need, & were designed for, CR in the 10:1 range on 2.0 motors - they are "lazy" on a bigger, low CR motor

i am switching to E-grinds from DRC

- had E's in my old 2.8 (10.5 CR) and it had GREAT low end torque from about 1800, but ran out of breath about 5800

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Valve seat grinding/conditioning
 

First, before I go on with the questions, let it be said that I am a neophyte wanna be Porsche cylinder head rebuilder. Previous to this experience the only "major"
work I have performed on Porsche heads is removing/replacing/reaming valve guides. I have not studied under any of the great Porsche head tuning magicians. So with that in mind........
My interest is in reconditioning the valves and seats on 2.0L 914-6 ("T") motor I am rebuilding for my 914-6 restoration project that is in progress.
A couple of years ago I purchased a B&D valve grinding machine that included a valve seat grinder set. I have purchased new 38mm and 42mm stones from Goodson at 30, 45 and 75 degree angles.
My first mistake was not trying seat grinding on a head that could be used for practice.
Second mistake was perhaps allowing the seat grinder to spin on the seat for more than a second.
Upon reflection, just using the stones by hand (without using the machine) may have resulted in a better end result.
Any suggestions??? comments??? I want to learn how to do this, but being an understudy to one of the great head rebuilders at this point in life will be a bit difficult.......
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1351439663.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1351439804.jpg

yes - the machine can be way too agressive -these things were designed for iron heads and iron seats

I have an ancient Souix valve shop - I just turn the stones by hand on the adjustable pilots with a T-handle

I use a mechanical seat cutter on the adjustable pilots to cut the 60 & 30 angles for a 3-angle job

better solution is to buy a KwikWay hand-cutting setup - (but you already spent your money)

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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1351448443.jpg

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even better solution - take the heads to a shop that does them all the time
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Yes... :D

Come by and let's go for a ride!

Hi! I bought a 911 SC four years ago and since then I’m trying to fine tune it’s Webers. After a lot of try/error sessions I decided to open the engine and see what cams I have inside.

I found out that I have a pair of 104/102 cams...

I have Weber 40IDA + MSD Ignition and Coil. Which jetting I should use for optimal “ hot street” usage?

Thank you in advance!