First G-50 engine drop.........

[boyt911sc]

I've done several engine drops with 915 transmissions but this would be my very first G-50. The last engine drop I did was an '85 Carrera with 915 the other summer. The car is an '87 Carrera with 119K miles on it and drives good except for the stiff/hard clutch pedal. The car is scheduled next month for a cross country drive. It would be driven from Philadelphia to Carmel, CA for delivery to my son's residence.

For peace of mind and driving some 3000 miles of hi-way driving, it would be nice to know the condition of the clutch before departing for this journey. What are the things I should be aware during the engine drop?
----transmission linkage is different.
----transmission mount is also different.
----hydraulic line for the clutch, when do I break the line during engine drop process?
----electrical, fuel lines, etc.

Is there a certain method to check the thickness or condition of the clutch with the engine/trans mounted in the car? BTW, I'm doing it solo but help availability during weekdays is not that good. Please share your thoughts and experience dropping a G-50. Any tips, suggestions, or reminder are highly appreciated. Thanks.

Tony

[Flat6pac]

Tony,
make sure you clear the shift mechanism from the chassis shifter. The bolt holding the shifter to the trans is a special 8mm long shoulder bolt on the horizontal.
Un hook the hydraulics from the trans and support it out of the way.
All electrics is the same but if you were to change the starter, the trans lowers from the front.
The resistance to the clutch is the needle bearings in the release fork.
Call me on the update to the needle bearings.
Bruce

[Deadeye]

Tony, do not open the hydraulic line to the slave cylinder. Remove the slave at the bell housing and DO NOT step on the clutch pedal after you remove the slave! I wire mine up and out of the way. If you have the old needle bearings on the clutch shaft you should consider installing the update kit to bushings in place of the needle bearings.

I don't think you can measure the clutch disc thickness unless you remove the clutch. I think minimum thickness should be 8.5mm. My engine and gearbox are out of my car now for a new clutch disc. Send a PM if you want to e- mail or phone to discuss.

[JeremyD]

87 Carrera engine drop

and with the g-50 - it really helps if you lower the engine a couple of inches - then disconnect the clutch slave and starter - a little less room than the 915 cars.

Just in my experience.

[boyt911sc]

Bruce,

I got your phone number and will call you.



Deadeye,

Sent you an email for details.


JeremyD,

That's very nice of you to attach those pictures. They surely are very helpful specially pictures #30 & #31. Never seen those parts before.


Thanks to everyone and I'll be back for more questions.

Tony

[boyt911sc]

The pictures of the G-50 engine drop posted by JeremyD is a big help for me and could not have done any better without it. Almost everything is detached except the clutch slave (still mounted on the transmission). Would it help if I partially drop the engine and undo the clutch slave from the top? Doing it under the engine is very tedious and cumbersome. I'm taking a break and would like some advise from you guys.



The above photo is #20 from JeremyD's file where the clutch slave removed prior to engine drop. Thanks.

Tony

[Flat6pac]

Lower the engine and reach over the top or go through the wheel well..with wheel removed
Bruce

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

Lower the engine and reach over the top or go through the wheel well..with wheel removed
Bruce

Bruce,

When you say 'lower the engine and reach over the top', do you mean working underneath the engine or access from the engine bay? I have the car on a lift and the rear wheels are off. Everything ready except the clutch slave. I guess I have no option but work underneath the car for the clutch slave removal. Thanks.

Tony

[JeremyD]

Originally Posted by JeremyD

87 Carrera engine drop

and with the g-50 - it really helps if you lower the engine a couple of inches - then disconnect the clutch slave and starter - a little less room than the 915 cars.

Just in my experience.

Otherwise it's a real biotch. The first ime I did it hugging the transmission - the 2nd time I lowered it a little and it was much easier

[boyt911sc]

The clutch slave was finally removed in situ. Getting off the two (2) securing nuts was tedious work and took about 15 minutes to get the clutch slave off the transmission. At last, the engine/trans is now ready for removal........

After several long minutes of inspection and getting the 4 mounting bolts loose, the first sign of relief was having the engine sit on the cart/dolly. The most exciting part was lifting the car away from the motor. Raising the lift inch by inch and listening to every creak and sound you could imagine. Everything went well except for one minor mistake. See below:


I missed this hose and it just pulled out by itself during the initial drop. Now I have to locate where it was connected.


The next step would be to detach the transmission and inspect the clutch disc, clutch fork, etc. and do some engine cleaning before putting the engine back on the car. Right now, I don't know if the transmission has the rubber centered clutch disc or not and will know by tomorrow.

Thanks to all you guys for the advise and encouragement. BTW, the original poster of the G-50 engine drop pictorial was Dan H. (Syncroid) from San Jose, CA.

Tony

[syncroid]

Hi Tony,
Sorry I'm a bit late to the party here. Nice talking to you on the phone. It was very hard for me to hear you though. We were at the beach celebrating my daughters 14th birthday. It was windy and a lot of back ground noise.
Looks like you were successful in removing the power unit. Good job! Before you separate the transmission from the engine, make sure you remove the throw out arm shaft first! The shaft is internallly threaded. Use a long 6mm x 1.25mm bolt and thread it into the shaft and pull it out. Its a no brainer. Good luck and feel free to call again.

[boyt911sc]

The engine and trans are out of the car. The tansmission has been separated from the engine and clutch fork removed for inspection.

The initial stage of pulling the G-50 from the engine (clutch fork shaft must be removed prior to this step):


Trans out and clutch fork exposed:


Picture of the OEM clutch fork and shaft with needle bearing/s.


This is the dreaded rubber centered clutch disc.


The main reason for this assembly was to inspect the condition of the clutch disc before driving the car cross country next month. The car drives well except for the very stiff clutch pedal compared to my '78 SC.

Here is my dilemma, should I drive the car to California with the rubber centered clutch that is still in pretty good shape (replaced by previous owner) or replace it now? I am inclined at the moment to drive it as is except the installation of the upgraded clutch fork shaft. Put everything back, test drive until departure time.

Or replace it now? What parts do I need to do this replacement job? All this questions because this is my first G-50 project and never touch one before.

Another picture of the clutch disc: The shinny streaks on the rubber disc were from penetrating oil applied prior to removal. Otherwise, the rubber centered disc is in pretty good condition.


Here is my dilemma, should I drive the car with the rubber centered disc to California or replaced it now? Once we (my son & I) get to California, we are planning to have the car painted and drop the engine again. And I have very tight and limited days left (about 10 working days) before the actual departure date. What you guys suggest? Thanks.

Tony

[Deadeye]

Tony, if your disc is OK then leave it until you get to CA and drop the engine there. I'm pretty sure you just need the spring center disc, but others with more knowledge may clarify this.

[Jesse16]

The rubber center units on my 87 have lasted 100k miles plus (on my third) which includes alot of DE miles. Since you're an experienced DIY person, why replace it if its still got alot of life left. I wouldn't call it "dreaded". Give you son a chance to at some point to get his hands oily. I think that hose is just some sort of vent hose. Look where the other end goes. Seems I remember I had one back there that has the end hanging in a "hole". Obviously not hurting your cars performance being "easy to remove".

[syncroid]

Tony, That hose goes to the valve located near the oil filler neck.
BTW, I am a fan of the rubber centered clutch disc. They are great for normal street use. Nice and quiet without a lot of gear noise transferred into the car.