Top End ... whilst in in there what else
 

OK so the car is burning oil, clearly needs the valve guides and rings, and I will also replace the studs. I don't want to go crazy, but as I have the engine out, I'm now thinking fuel lines and probably time to do the clutch possible re build the transmission.

Is there anything else I should be doing whilst the motor is out of the car. Bearing in mind I am trying to not go crazy about the re build costs, I juts want a stock streetable 3.2.

Sorry for the broadness but this is my first top end.

You need valve job, guides, and 12 lower steel head studs.
Gasket set, chain rails, cam oil lines and intermediate shaft bearings if youre going into the bottom and see if anyone has been there before.
Bruce

In addition I would suggest replacing the rear main seal. Pretty simple and inexpensive to do while the engine is out.

Thanks for the feedback. Would you re grind the 3.2 cams to 964 spec ? I already have chip / pre muff / sports muff.

Most important: ARP rod bolts to replace 9mm 3,2 bolts.

whilst in there...
 

Well...............

After taking apart what seemed to be fairly average engine with 110K+ miles,
I am of the opinion that rebuilding a Porsche engine with average mileage may
require more than just a "top end" rebuild. We measured and found cylinders
out of spec, and a bad rod bearing not yet knocking...

So, if you plan to do the top end I would suggest that you open up the case and look at rod and main bearings. Once you open the engine up there are many parts that
may be worn and need replacement. Either measure yourself or take to a qualified
Porsche technician. Porsche designs and builds excellent engines, but parts do wear
and the wear limits are small (IMHO of course). And, once you take the engine
apart you "may" find many more parts that need replacing than you originally planned. A top end done by a good shop is about $13K -- DIY may be $7K

If you have owned the car since birth and have complete service records, then this step may
not be necessary -- but you asked for "whilst in there" -so....

But, if the oil smoke is not too bad...then just drive it and enjoy it until you sell
or have enough resources to do a thorough rebuild.

Regards,

Lots to do on the heads too! On a recent "valve job" of my 3.2 I found all 24 springs (inner and outer) to be well under min on compression. Reportedly "new" when engine done just a few running hours before all 6 intake valves were bent on an over-rev. Actually found 3 of the exhausts out of spec too (slightly bent). Relatively easy to check so why chance it?

I was in your situation years ago now.

I would have done a number of things differently in retrospect.

At the time, with what I knew, I didn't have the guts to split the case.
I did about everything else.

A part of the engine design I don't like relates to the rockers, shaft sealing etc.
Getting all the rockers in shape and installed so they will not leak and will last is doable but you may want the expert(s) to help. There are some alternate bushing material being used in addition to sealing methods you may want to look at.

I also think it is worth looking at a 964 regrind.

Looking back I should have split the case and at least checked the bearings including those on the layshaft.

I've put about 35k miles on my top end without issues on the motor side.

Yes, I just did this along with the ARP rod bolts, refurb'd rockers, new valves, springs and Head-studs as already recommended here. You will need to have your chip reprogrammed for the new cams.

head studs on a lowish mile 3.2?
 

in midst of top end on 3.2 88, 83k miles no smoke... not doing bottom end if i can help doing everything in last post..including titanium retainers, valve guides, etc

.... i was unaware that one should do the studs also on these motors.?!.... i thought this stud pulling was only a problem on the early cases and that the actual stud fragility was solved by the late 80s..correct? should i do all studs now? i am aware of the rod bolt issue.

btw this is 90% race (DE) rebuild...going with ITBs, crankfire and 964 or slightly greater grind

thanks for comments! frank

G-man...

IMHO -- I think replacing head studs on newer engines is an insurance move - they take a lot of
load and pounding -- it isn't the pull out of the case problem, but possible breaking
that causes us to replace easily "while you are in there"...just an opinion of course.

Regards,

Yes. Cheap(ish) insurance while you already have everything apart.

Thanks roy and mat got it.. Will do ..happy new year frank