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OK to PowderCoat Chain boxes also? PICTURE
All my parts degreased, powerwashed and ready to go to the PCs.
Is it OK to have covers ( as is usually done ) AND the boxes themselves PC'd? Is there a concern of warping the boxes at all? just checkin thanks frankhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1355083770.jpg |
I'm sure the experts that have been-there/seen-it/done-it will chime in, but I strayed away from doing this on my rebuild, instead just getting both boxes vapour blasted and then spent a good amount of time thoroughly cleaning them again to extract any remaining blasting powder. Cocking the boxes up, I imagine, introduces a world of pain....quite a few bits need to be spot-on with alignment to avoid leaks or running probs (chain tensioners, for example), and loads of machined mating faces that you don't want to get coated eg, to the case halves, the cam carrier and of course the faces to the covers.
I did powder coat the covers, and even there, you need to be careful to mask the hole where the tensioner oil feeds protrude through the covers....I stupidly overlooked this, then spent a good amount of time carefully removing the coating but not the metal. Won't make that mistake again. Quite a few pics in my build, linked below. HTH Spencer. |
GENE... I would not PC those parts, just clean and clean again.. MY Upper VC are sprayed, but after the fact, who really cares at 160MPH???? Spend the time and $$ on the heads and cams..
My 2.5 cents.. |
How do you stop the powdercoat from going on the inside surface?
It occurs to me that having it on the inside might be bad. Bob |
tape over it....
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I leave everything plain, unpainted or powdercoated. I figure it is better heat transfer when the parts are bare
But you can do the chain housings and covers if you really want to. I've seen it done. I think the fan & housing are worthwhile since they're magnesium and don't have a good finish on them when bare. Coating them is good for protection from corrosion. But the aluminum alloy parts are fine w/out coating in terms of corrosion. |
My engine was previously powder coated main case and chain covers... slowly it has chipped and flaked since the process in 1991. The pictures of it from 1991 look great but it's a different story now as there is more bare than coated. I'm stripping everything I can reach during my top-end refresh down to the original bare metal. If you're afraid of corrosion then there is a brush on coating called sharkhide that you can get from Eastwood that should do the trick.
Sharkhide aluminum sealer and protectant |
Ask yourself; how many of the parts did Porsche powder coat on the production line?
Also, be careful powder coating the FAN. It not done just right, you can end up with rubbing issues with the fan housing. |
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I got my fan etch primed and painted by a paint-mate to match the rest of the powder coating I've had done. |
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Here's a shot of one that was recently done with powder coated housings, covers, fan etc.. we went this route since it was primarily for street use.. ease of cleaning, and we thought it was purdy. Quote:
I have seen some have an issue with the fan rubbing the housing.. I have a tendency to trim the edge of the fins prior, although not by much. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1356542059.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1356542292.jpg |
Well, I have had my boxes coated, and know of a few race engines that have been running coated chain boxes with no issues.
My 3.0 http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1356993678.jpg Engine I wish was mine:D http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1356993786.jpg |
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Progress!!
Byron and NoC those motors are museum pieces!! just works of art and functionality too bad they will be beat upon on the track.... I elected not to do the boxes ..likely buff them out and shark seal them.
here is some progress on my build... back from PC..and head hardware ready.. (i am way behind as it has taken 2 weeks to get a lift installed including new cement, ceiling work and 220 etc etc...not that I need this for the build but it was a purchase of opportunity..) what a huge hassle to get it in though ..... hopefully worth it in the long run... .. painting.refinishing the engine cowel same yellow using special order rattle can.. ..i am going with billet aluminum hargett lower v covers from our host. HAPPY NEW YEAR TO EVERYONE AND THANKS FOR THE HELP THIS PAST YEAR!!! BEST REGARDS FRANK http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1356999105.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1356999117.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1356999136.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1356999149.jpg |
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Has anyone researched heat transfer properties of powercoating not sure?,these motors need all the cooling they can get in hot climates as they are cooled by oil and air in that order. Read an article years ago and matt black came up as having the high heat tranfer properties of all colours,air cooled motorbikes come to mind. End of the day its your engine so its up to you,cheers. |
Frank,
Your powder coated parts look great! Now, how about a pic of that new lift in the garage?? Regards, |
Going up today!
Thanks roy !! Posts go up today...got my king hell 3/4 inch cement drill to tackle 10 inches 0f 4000psi concrete , a bunch of anchors , and a case of beer for the muscle... And to relieve the hair o' the dog from last night ..if the crew needs it....(not me!!) pics to follow cheers!! Frank
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I think powdercoating the covers of the chain boxes is fine. As long as you don't mess with the sealing surfaces on the back side. I wouldn't do the boxes just because of the posts inside for the chain ramps and the post for the chain tensioner. So if you don't do the inside, you're fine. Just have to be careful on the exterior of the box around the case sealing surface and don't mess with the big bore for the cam sealing plate o-ring.
There's not a lot of heat generated in the chain box. But it certainly acts as a nice heat sink for the case. I've heard from some powdercoating shops and users that the powdercoat does act like an insulator and can raise temperatures. But not a hugely harmful amount. I've heard around 10 degrees on water cooled muscle car engines and the t-stat was adjusted by that amount to offset the temp rise. |
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Kind of like Jet-Hot exhaust, and looks good too. |
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