Henry,

I just called it a night out there in the garage working on the cylinders for 4hrs. I put 13hrs in today at the regular job and was the last person in my business unit to leave for the day (mostly because I'm a metrics junky and most people say eff it before I do). A long day for anyone by most measures.

Like many people who work long hours, I look for an escape wherever I can once I consider myself off the clock. While you may seek your escape from the norm in Vegas playing poker, I sneak out to my garage with a few cold beers to work on the car and visit with my neighbors who are also seeking an escape during the week.

Working on the 911 allows me to completely forget the day of work for awhile and focus on something completely different as a way to clear my mind. When you say that it's "sad" and that I'm "struggling" with these cylinders you have it completely wrong because that's your perspective. As a hobby, I enjoy challenges that let me use my brain in ways that I might not be able to at my regular job. Figuring out the most creative way to remove 1.5mm from each side of a finned iron cylinder can be a bit of fun if you let it. There's some cheesy saying of "Not all who wander are lost" and that applies here.

Had to dig back for this after Henry's latest take to tell you that you nailed it.

Andrew, I don't have any idea how this became about me but you have no idea who I am if you believe the statements posted above.

I wake up in the morning and walk to my shop. It's a barn that was originally storage for avocados then it was use to restore old woodies.
When I get to my shop, I have coffee with old friends. One is a design engineer from Calti design (my machinist) one is a long time employee who has 30+ of Porsche parts and restoration experience, and last but not least is Dean Polopolous, my builder. All were friends before we worked together.
If you really think we work 3-4 days a week so we can roll in the big bucks you really are confused.
Those old friends and I restore old 911 engines because we love the brand and the challenge of saving these great old cars.

Do I believe in sound business practices? I don't know but I do believe in following the path created by 30 years of experience that tells us to stay away from those concepts that didn't work and give sound advise, built on that experience, to anyone who asks.

I corrected you for when you mistakenly ascertain my experience here as sad struggles. Your judgement is unwelcome and quite frankly, wildly inaccurate. SmileWavy

When you're in business, you sure as shyt better know what you stand for. The fodder contained in a loaded statement like this could take us well off track so I'll let it be. Have you seen anything done differently so far here that differs from your approach with the cast iron cylinders? Anything at all that would lead you to believe this experience may be different than yours? If no, then I demand to see your heat sinks and coatings. Otherwise, just sit back - quit posting putrid judgements and watch for the results at which time you can pass your judgement or eat your crow.

Andrew, you really seem to have gone off the deep end.

"sound business practices" is such a broad term that no one could possibly make a comprehensive statement of any meaning.

This statement says he (Henry) is sad to watch you struggle (to proceed with difficulty) with bad parts.
This is an empathetic statement not an attack on you. You're anger is so great that you can only see from a place of anger.

Please. You're a known Supertec nutswinging customer. Buzz off.

Update: Night 2 in the garage with my sad struggles that I've learned of thanks to a brilliant masteful buddy on here. Not sure how I can continue without crying and getting tears all over the iron cylinders which I'm afraid will cause rust. Tears of rust. Boohoo this is so hard, whatever will I do? Maybe I can trade this 911 in for a used moped.

http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps453f1a07.jpg

:D

Epic Pissing Contest
 

The Zax are characters from the Dr. Seuss books. They are stubborn and arguable and have messy hair and hairy bodies. They live in the Prairie of Prax. Varieties of Zax include a north-going Zax and a south going Zax. Due to their stubbornness, they refuse to go in any direction other than their assigned directions. If a south-going Zax encounters a north-going Zax, they cannot solve their issue and the world progresses without them, such as a highway being built over them.

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^ :cool:

Few folks contacted me about this tool and how to create/use. Here's what worked for me. When you're done it should look something like this:

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First, start with copper tubing available at most hardware stores. This piece is available at Home Depot in the plumbing section for under $10.

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Chop off a 2-3" section and choose the direction of the of the tool at this time. The end with the square/flat cut (probably not the one you just created when you cut it) should be the end that will face the JE piston and the other end will be where you load the clip. The end that faces the piston should be tapered down with a file around the entire edge and then sanded smooth. I also chose to sand the inside surface of the tube a bit to open it up a bit more but that's probably not necessary.

http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/q...psb46c4a78.jpg

Here's the relative size of the tool and the clip for reference:

http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps0464b0a6.jpg

Next, insert the clip into the tube with your fingers. Careful steady pressure so you don't take skin off. These clips are tough buggers because they're so thick in diameter and stiff.

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Drive it in with the socket appropriately sized socket and your bare hands; there are no hammers or mallets involved at all with the use of this tool:

http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps4ebd9314.jpg

It's probably wise to lube the inside of the tool with a little oil or assembly lube. View from the piston end of the tool with the socket and clip loaded and lubed:

http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps762709c5.jpg

Work the clip up to the piston end of the tube until it is at the edge or just a mm or 2 over:

http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps9a25579d.jpg

Square the tool to the wrist pin bore and apply steady pressure against the copper tube to maintain contact while pressing the socket/plunger towards the piston, which drives the clip into position:

http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps431d759e.jpg

Couple notes - load one clip into each piston on the workbench while being careful to note orientation of the piston and planned direction of wrist pin insertion during assembly. If you load into the wrong side of the piston you could end up having to remove it in order to install if the piston is second or third in the row. In other words you would end up being blocked by the cylinder you just installed.

When you load on the workbench, you will need to use the wrist pin to seat the clip from the back side carefully.

When you're installing the second clip above the deck of the engine when you're attaching to the connecting rod, you will only have to worry about the tool end as the wrist pin is clipped on the other end already, of course. No hammer, no banging or prying tools, just bare hands and steady pressure to keep the tool in place while working. The first time it clips in you won't believe how easy it works.

Poor man's Stomski circlip injector tool. Nice job.

Until I added some lube to my Stomski tool I thought even it wouldn't insert these blasted things. Harder to get in, and harder to get out than the factory clips.

So far, I've seen opinions that regular circlips (the ones which have ears with holes for the plier's like circlip tool to engage) are not good for wrist pin retention. But no reasoning given. It looks like J&E will cut your piston for circlips (or spiralocks, though those who rate those as bad because even harder to install or remove or both deserve to have their experiences listened to if, like me, you have no experience with them in this application).

We have the Stomski injector tools here. I had made my own on the lathe as well. After one late night trip to the ER for stiches in my palm when my modified screwdriver slipped and nearly came through the back of my hand (a search will find pics) I decided enough was enough.....

Your tool look like it will work well....

Works great. Hadn't heard of that tool name before, had to Google to see what it's all about. Looks pretty nice with the texture for your pleasure... :)

More progress today. Cleaning 5 times before sealing and torquing down. 27ft lbs on the ARP is where we settled.

http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps1709bf7f.jpg

http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/q...psc333ecae.jpg

Andrew,

Just wondering what is your professional background, license ,and engineering degree?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1368925881.jpg

Daniel - business administration. The NFL never called so I'm technically an undrafted free agent. :D

Lunch break

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Look's great! Keep up the good work!;)

Don't forget to clean off (down to bare metal) the place where the alt ground strap goes.
Bob

Thanks for the input and constructive feedback. The majority of hours going into this assembly are being spent on sealing surface preparation. Brake cleaner and wiping until the surfaces come clean and then repeating two more times. The ground strap that was on the engine when I took it apart was not adequate... was a 10gauge, low strand count(stiff) with unsealed crimp connectors. The case side had some damaged powdercoat on the contact surface. Going to overkill the ground strap on new install and seal the connectors at each end.

http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps4da350f6.jpg

Modified the left side hydraulic chain cover to allow attaching to the smaller studs... could also use washer or spacer to return to later chain case.

http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/q...psccf20b5d.jpg

Also expoxied the back of the cam cover studs that pass through into oil environment as well as the back of the chain covers for the chain tensioner pegs.

Flat edge must have been lying. Left chain wasn't operating as smoothly as I liked. About every 3rd rotation by hand it was catching a tooth and clicking. Removed two shims and gained smooth operation.

All new tensioners installed. The brown on the lower right in the engine was replaced with a black like the rest previously. I swapped it back to the brown.

Brown is same as black just a bit shorter in overall height.

http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps67171810.jpg

Finding a lot of uses for the 1/2" PVC pipe.
http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps1fc1c25c.jpg

http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps94f08a12.jpg

Prepping the chain mount holes.

http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps9ebb4bdb.jpg

Cam timing soon, perhaps tomorrow.

http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps7fc2fb1a.jpg

Be careful with using the copper spray on the cam cover plate gasket. It's tackiness can cause a leak. Reason I say that is because the installation of the cover plate can sometimes move the gasket and the sticky nature of the Permatex can disrupt the gasket placement and not allow it to slide a bit as you're seating the cam plate. Happened to me on my last build.

Also, it's often a good idea to surface the cam cover plate. It's surprising how uneven the sealing surface can be. Do a test by coloring the surface with a permanent marker and then surface it on some fine sandpaper atop truly flat surface like glass or the like. Like I said, surprising.

Also doesn't hurt to flatten the receiving gasket surface on the cam housing itself. That area is equally uneven on a lot of housings. I'm ashamed to admit i've had to do my fair share of cam housing "reconditioning" for various reasons.