Reviving 2.0 after ~20 years
 

Chipping away at a project I picked up a few months back. The car is a 70 914-6 that has been sitting since the mid 90s based on DOT tire stamps on the car and overall condition.

Prior to my getting it, the fuel tank was removed and a new one purchased, SS fuel lines purchased, and the carbs were rebuilt.

I've cleaned up the motor, cleaned and inspected the intake ports, re installed carbs, and am in the process of replacing all the fuel line and fuel filters. I have no idea why the car was parked. Was told the compression was good @ ~145 on all cylinders and it does turn over easily with no weird noises at starting speeds. The cylinders have had Marvel Mystery in them for several months now and the motor cycled occasionally.

Couple of questions -
1) I was planning to cycle clean filtered fuel through the fuel pump over the course of a few days to loosen up and hopefully clean out anything in the pump. Anyone think I should just replace the pump?

2) One of the cylinders has some pitting from corrosion in the head, intake manifold, and carb throttle body. I don't know if this pre or post rebuild. I have records that the motor was pulled twice ~110,000 miles and based on records, I don't think the car has much more than another 10 or 20K miles since that time. I did notice the tolerance between the intake manifold holes and the studs in the head were not as loose as the driver side and after tightening the intake down I couldn't get the carb to seat easily. So I loosened the intake, seated the carb, tighten intake (carb wasn't binding), then tightened down the carb. So I'm wondering if perhaps one or more of the passenger bank of cylinders isn't aligned as well as it could be. Anyone ever experience this? I didn't feel like I was forcing the carb flat after loosening and reseating the intake and carb. But it was not as well fitting as the other side.

Once I get all the engine bay plumbing connected I had planned to hook the pump into an external source of clean fuel to see if the motor will fire before moving on to fuel tank, lines, and brake system. If it fires and runs, I'm going to finish those three items and take the car to a mechanic I trust for a tune up, valve adjustement, leak down, etc.. Any suggestions are welcome. Thx

Couple of pictures -
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/81912396@N00/8586950409/" title="photo 1 by todd2302000, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8519/8586950409_453db81fb9_b.jpg" width="765" height="1024" alt="photo 1"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/81912396@N00/8588051352/" title="photo 2 by todd2302000, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8251/8588051352_afa03878b3_b.jpg" width="765" height="1024" alt="photo 2"></a>

I would think the timing chain tenshiners should be my concern after non use for so long. Call the mech. Who you were going to tune it up and ask his suggestions.
Very cool car.

Thanks ficke! Good points.

I got the car running today. Removed cleaned and installed the fuel pump, filled the bowls in the carbs and a few cranks fired it up. Huge amount of crap and smoke but it sounded good otherwise. I shut it down inspected, cleaned up the area 20 feet behind the car and fired it again. This time with the fuel pump plugged in. Few leaks on the carbs and it looked like fuel flowing into each cylinder. Wondering if the pump lines are hooked up wrong and I'm feeding the carbs with the return. Will check this out. Also possible i indexed the pump parts incorrectly(?). The motor has been soaked in marvel oil for about 8 months so. Lots of oil to burn but one bank is shooting a fair amount of oil so I'm thinking I might have a bad cylinder. Hoping its just excess oil.

You did change the oil and filter before you started it of course, and as long as the lower end sounded OK I would not worry about smoke or make a decision on rings or valves in tell I ran it through a few heat cycles and under load. The trick is you do not want to damage any thing while investigating. Rings, valves stuff that makes smoke will not cost more to fix after running it and driving it. Bearings, bad tenshiner could cost you more if you run it with an issue. So the main thing is to be listening for those noises and not worrying to much about smoke now.
Webers IDA do not have a return fuel line and will not tolerate fuel pressure over 3 pds.

Hi ficke, bottom end chains etc all sound solid. The Bosch fuel pump has three lines two that exit under pressure. I think the return is more of a bypass when pressure builds. There was some crud in there. Wondering if that is causing the over fueling. Maybe I missed something in that bypass area. Also the pump plate is eccentric and can be indexed in 4 locations. I have it indexed where it was so I'm 99% on reassembly. The ports are labeled R D S. the middle one D is the one I have hooked up to the carbs. It had the least volume when testing off the car. Second oil filter rotella t1 oil for a few heat cycles while I work the bugs out and then brad penn or vr1 when/if things seat and start working right. Thx