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My 3.2 Build
I figured I would start a thread about the overall build instead of starting a new thread every time I have a question.
Yesterday I bolted the case halves together and measured the main bearings with my bore gauge. Clearances came out to be between 0.0027 and 0.0033. With the outside end of the spec being 0.0028, it looks like I will be a tad loose on a couple of the mains with the worst being a half thou over. I also installed the rods on the crank. The rod clearances are between 0.0032 and 0.0035, so within spec. So, question #2 Regarding the 3 Mains studs. I'm thinking they should be left a half turn from bottoming out in the case to allow to the difference in expansion coefficients of the two metals. Is that correct? Or should I snug them right to the bottom? And lastly, a pic from yesterday's fun. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1365361949.jpg |
How did you get the case so clean it looks beautiful did you bead blast and tumble clean?
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Although I was happy with the results, I have to admit, it was a really bad idea. Even though I masked things really well, glass bead got into places it shouldn't have. I ended up having the oil galley plugs and piston squirters pulled so that things could be cleaned out properly. On the plus side, I do have 6 new piston squirters. |
Are the piston squirters expensive it really looks like brand new though
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Hello Ian,
Any studs I installed a left a half turn or so of end clearance and let the Loctite do the work. The case looks beautiful, but you were right to take the plugs out. I have heard a lot of horror stories from errant grit left somewhere. Even from one very reputable shop that allegedly took all sorts of care and still ended up with issues, so one can't be too careful in the clean up effort! I just stayed with carb cleaner and pressurized water. It does not look as good, but I think it was functionally clean. |
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Not really that expensive New Page 1 |
Which main bearings are you using? I had a similar issue with Glyco replacements and finally had to go with Porsche mains sourced from the dealer.
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Soda blasting is a great way to clean cases and aluminum castings where you need a mild abrasive but don't want to damage soft metal surfaces or change their dimension. The soda dissolves when washed in warm soapy water leaving no abrasive grit behind. I also took precautions to tape off oil galley holes just to be sure:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/673294-soda-blasting-engine-case.html |
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/672747-main-bearing-clearance.html |
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Yikes - $1100. They sell 2 sets, 1 thru 8, or 2 thru 7. So you can't buy #1 without having to take the #8 as well. WTF is that? Feel like I'm buying hot dog buns? |
I discovered I was missing a couple of studs and the alignment pin for the #8 bearing.
I got the parts this week from Mark Motors in Ottawa, and I'm now back in the game. Although I had previously derived the mains clearances using measurements and calculations. Today I did them with Plastigauge, which resulted in consistent clearances of 0.0025. I wanted to do both just to be safe. Tomorrow the plan is to seal up the case, finally. |
Flywheel crank seal question
I'm wondering about installing the flywheel end crank seal.
Should I do this when mating the case halves, or wait and press it in after they are mated? |
Post some pics as you go along i like your attention to detail this should be a great build. Are you building to oem spec or have you planned some performance upgrades?
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Case halves mated
Today I got the case halves mated.
I sealed it based on Henry Schmidt's recommended procedure. Loctite 574 on the main bearing webs Threebond 1104 on the case perimeter Threebond 1211 on the #8 bearing O-Ring Flywheel seals are dry. I found the 1104 on the case perimeter didn't go on very thick when rolled with a foam roller, and started to dry too quickly. I ran a thin bead around and spread it with a foam brush instead. I used the same method to apply the 574 as well. I still found the 1104 was skinning over a bit, so I went back to the first edge I did and ran over it again with some additional sealant. Once the halves were torqued up, I had a tiny bit of squeeze out, less than I expected. If any of you guys have done this, please have a look at the pics below and let me know your thoughts. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1367195384.jpg |
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Pic 3
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And a pic of the whole case
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Thanks for the nice comment. I'm building the engine itself to stock spec, but I just got a set of B&B headers and plan on a Steve Wong chip. |
I had about the same amount of squeeze out with the three bond on the case perimeter. It looks fine to me.
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Looks pretty consistent along the length....I had about the same.
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Thanks guys. Always nice to hear the experience of others, especially when wading in uncharted waters as I am.
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Hello Ian,
Looks great! As for the squeeze out: It looks very similar to mine. It was one the the 6,798,465 things I worried about. However, absolutely no leaks at all. Henry's method really is good. And, its a balance: Yes, we want full coverage on the bonding surfaces, but we don't want to goop so much on that we end up with globs of the stuff on the inside. I think you are good to go! |
Cleaning rocker shaft bores?
I haver a question about cleaning the corrosion out of the rocker shaft bores.
I don't want to glass bead because that will rough up the surface, so I'm thinking about switching to soda blasting. Has anyone soda blasted their cam towers? If so, did you experience any degradation of the cam bearing surfaces or the rocker shaft bores? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1369023387.jpg |
Nice work on the engine assembly, at least as far as you posted! What was the outcome in the end, did you get it to run nicely and did it stay dry at the case seam?
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Cheers, Lukas |
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