nut & bolt kit
 

Is there a hardware / nuts and bolts kit available from any source. Pelican has one but it's been backordered for a while. I thought the reseal kit would come with all the hardware but no.

I wold like to use all new nuts and bolts but can't find a kit.


Thanks

Chris
73 911 E

I buy my bolts/nuts from McMaster-Carr. The downside of doing this is you need to know exactly which bolt or nut you need. The upside is the savings from buying a non-porsche part. You basically put together your own kit.

Linky: McMaster-Carr

I buy bags of 100 at a time. They are not gold timted but zinc plates. They also have assortments boxes but buying exactly what I need leaves me with less leftovers.
Boltdepot.com
Bruce

I bought the kit from pelican, when I phoned I was told the kits get put together when ordered so there is never anything in stock. I believe Wurth put them together. Give them a call.

Neil

I called Pelican last week and they said to give them until this Friday. Looking for a plan B as it did not sound overly encouraging they would have them.

Really surprised Woodward Racing or Victor Rinze(sp?) does not include or sell separately all the nuts, bolts, washers etc. It's part of every application of their product.

I assume everyone uses new hardware.

Chris
73 911 E

Bought a metric assortment from my local parts store. Virtually all hardware in my engine bay had some measure of corrosion prior to rebuild. Toss all the corroded junk - it's only going to spread. I know some people will have it cleaned and re-coated but I'd rather have new zinc. Far less fuss and does the job.

I bought a stainless kit #7543 from Boltdepot.com which covered about 75% of my needs. Some Ace Hardware stores have decent sections if your in a hurry.

I guess the advantage of building cars and bikes over several decades is that you end up with a ton of spare (brand new) hardware.
I have saved probably hundreds of boxes of nuts/bolts/screws/special plugs and sockets/etc over the years.
I can't understand how people do without all this stuff...LOL.
The idea of having to run down to the local parts store to buy just one nut is crazy.
Start your collection while you are young...catch up with the rest of us old guys!
Bob

You're right, Hawg Bob. I've always said these things have too many parts anyway. In a couple of decades, Chris will be where we are now. :)

I'd be rather hesitant to just go down to Ace Hardware and pick up a few fasteners. Case in point:

I recently had the top end of my SC engine rebuilt, and looking for a bunch of new nuts (M8x1.25?) that fasten the cam towers to the heads, I called my long time friend that owns a fastener distribution business. He handed me a bag of about 50 of the nuts.
When the time came to use said nuts, about 25% or so of them didn't feel quite right when getting torqued down. My engine builder asked me where the nuts came from, I got my friend on the phone and he said "China---all that stuff is made in China these days". Long story short, my engine builder was quite put off at the quality of the nuts; the ones that didn't feel right while being torqued to spec were removed and inspected under a microscope---as well as many in the bag that had not been used---and it looked apparent that the holes drilled into the nut were too large for the tap that was used to cut the threads and there were other irregularities. We wound up removing them all and sourced the required nuts from another 911 engine builder.

As with all things, there's junk out there. Doesn't necessarily mean it's all junk however.

All metric nuts and bolts over 6MM are supposed to have a grade marking. Never use a nut or bolt that does not have these markings.
Quick tutorial on bolts: Specbolt Fasteners Technical Info...learn about motorcycle bolts
All you need to know about metric nuts:
US Grade 2 = approx metric property class 5.8
US Grade 5 = approx metric property class 8.8
US Grade 8= approx metric property class 10.9
US Grade (?) 8+ = approx metric property class 12.9
In general, if a bolt is not marked AT LEAST 8.8, I wouldn't use it.
Bob B

A metric nut is not going to have a two part class. For example, you will see class 8 and class 10 metric nuts. The metric nuts single element class number is equivalent to the leftmost class number for metric bolts.

Look here:

ISO property classes for steel bolts and nuts

Scott

I buy from these guys:

Metric Hardware, Metric Fasteners, Metric Bolts, Metric Nuts & Time-Sert Thread Repair

I guess I had the ideal situation when I was younger....was in the Military...had access to the tool crib supplies (only the best) lots of grade 8 or better fasteners....even lots of Titanium stuff too.
It's amazing how much weight you can lose by replacing ALL the hardware in a car with Titanium!....LOL
Thank you for your tax dollars.
Bob

Bob B makes a good point; know your grades. I'll add to also think about the application; thermal cycling, vibration, high load, etc ... and don't go to Ace to buy all-thread for cylinder studs

Yes, I buy from Belmetric as well. I love the quality of their fasteners and the price is reasonable when you consider that quality.

Scott

Last time I checked, this place had a good supply of DIN parts. Web site not the greatest, but click on "Gallery" to see if they have what you are looking for.
Bob B

Metric Specialties, Inc.
21182 Centre Pointe Parkway No. 110
Santa Clarita, CA 91350
Metric Specialties, Inc. - Gallery
Toll Free: 800-800-6696
Alternate Phone:
661-255-6696

Fax: 661-254-6696

The kit from Pelican finally arrived. No flywheel bolts and no case nuts (nuts that hold the case together). Do I need new ones?

Thanks

Chris
73 911 E

The case perimeter nuts? Or the "cap" nuts? The perimeter nuts should be in there. If not, call Pelican.

For the case through hardware I had mine blasted, zinc plated (yellow), and baked.

Todd