:)

Hope you found the other half of the seal.

Len

:)

Me like Viton! NOM NOM NOM

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1376694990.jpg

The other half........
 

Yes, found it floating around in the block.

This time around.........
 

The only difference will be the seal manufacturer and I intend to use my engine hoist to lower the left block half into place. That way, I can make certain that everything is lined up and let in down gently. The last time, I did not have the engine hoist and simply muscled the block halves together.

Great/not so great news !. Too bad such a small item created so many additional hours until driving your car again.

Fred, as frustrating as it is to have to go backwards, this thread is truly an inspiration to others and very informative! Thank you for sharing your journey and for possibly saving others from a similar fate.

Yes, your experience will help others to go slow and careful and watch those oil pump seals as much as you can while assembling the case halves.

Do you wet the the sides and edges of them a tiny bit with motor oil to help them slide into their holes and not drag and possibly tear on an edge when putting the halves together?

Wrightwood racing gasket and seal set is often recommended over the lower cost Victor Reinz set.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/258837-wrightwood-racing-stock-gaskets.html

Experience........
 

If this thread will help prevent anyone else from making the same mistakes that I made, then the time and effort will have been worthwhile. Since I enjoy working on engines, this has not been all bad. The worst thing has been not getting to drive my car!

This whole problem happened because I tried to assemble the block single handed. While half a 911 block is not terribly heavy, trying to get everything lined up and sliding together without an extra set of hands is difficult. I guess that is one of the things one has to learn the hard way!

Actually, I lubricated the seals with a bit of assembly lube, but results should be similar.

Next time I do a 911 engine, I'll definitely stay away from the VR seals even though this issue belongs to me, not them. Haven't seemed to have had any problems with the VR gaskets.

SmileWavy
Congratulations are in order!
You will be driving soon with peace of mind. Cool stuff.

Glad you found the problem very easily, relatively speaking.

Joining the two case halves is pretty straightforward and it self-aligns with the #8 nose bearing at one end and the other end there's two thru-bolts that are "permanently" installed in one halve with dowel sleeves. Just keep an eye on that pesky seal as the case is closed up next time- no ***** Sherlock, right? ;) Easy to watch that oil pump area while you tap the case home with a rubber mallet

Great thread and outcome even though a ton more hours were needed.

I am having the same issue on a brand new 3.2 that I just finished. I'm thinking this could also be the culprit which doesn't make me happy but knowing that I found someone with the exact same symptoms and a very well documented story helps!!

So many threads never get updated with the cause, solution or outcome. Thank you Fred! I will be looking into this one tomorrow and guessing the motor will need to come out.

Oil pressure.............
 

I hope you find your engine's "issue" without having to do a tear down! The good news is that everything will be new and clean to work with!

I was looking at your list of currently owned cars and noticed the 1912! I assume it is a Brass era car. Would love to see a picture!

update
 

Fred, thanks for the response... I know this thread was so old I wasn't sure if you were active at all on here anymore.

I will still try some other things before removing and disassembling the motor but I'm guessing based on our identical symptoms that I may have to go that route.. ugh.

Questions:
- If I need to tear it down can't I leave 4-6 side mostly intact? Seems to me that since those are sealed they should be fine and not needed to be removed other than chain removal from sprocket and loosen up all rocker arm shafts to cam. Thoughts?
- I wonder if I can reuse flywheel bolts even though one time use, they haven't been been heat cycled.. what did you do in that regard.

Good news is no leaks, dry as a bone and motor sounds lovely and super peppy (I went with lightened flywheel and euro spec P's and C's... so .5 compression more).

Oil Pressure:
Cold: 3.5 bar at idle
slightly warm: .5-.75bar at idle

Here's a pic of the motor. Yes, that is a 1912 Brass Era.. my grandfather purchased there car in the mid 60's, did a restoration in the 80's then I took ownership of the car in 2018. Last year it was shown at Quail in Carmel, CA. Wishing I was working on this motor right now... due to the simplicity of it all.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1596553503.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1596553503.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1596553503.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1596553503.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1596553503.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1596553503.jpg

Engine re-do
 

Yes, you should be able to leave the 4-5-6 side mostly intact. I think I reused the flywheel bolts also. Like you said, they had not been heat cycled. That was about 8 years ago and there has been no problem with the flywheel/bolts as of now.

The Buick is absolutely stunning! Both my grandfather and father were old car buffs and I learned to appreciate them early on. I assume it is a 4 cylinder valve in block engine. Great to hear that you got the chance to take it out and show it off!

video
 

Fred, thanks!

I posted a quick video on Youtube.. have a look.

https://youtu.be/ceyPlrBumxw

You can also take the 1-3 side off as a unit. That will save alot of work. As I recall, you might have to remove a tensioner stud to get the chain free.

-Andy

After I assembled my motor, I was paranoid that one of those oil pump seals had slipped.

I purchased a bore scope and looked inside to confirm they were all good. I was able to sleep after that.

Gordon, did you look in once case was sealed and before anything else or at a later time? If late, where did you go in through? Would be great if there was a way to get in there with a decent view..

Andy, yes I would do it that way for sure to minimize as much work as possible.

Admittedly, I did not have the motor all together, nor was there any oil in it yet.

I went in through the oil scavenge port, the pressure safety valve, and down through the port below the thermostat. The pressure safety valve is a little tricky since there is a dog leg going into the pump.

The hard part for you is clearing out the oil from the ports. But in my opinion worth the effort.

Thanks Gordon,

Fred, I uploaded 2 new videos... is this what you were seeing also. Took the car for a drive and got reasonably warm... 170 degrees at engine case once back with digital temp gun.

Have a look and provide your thoughts... this seems to be pretty good which is making me think its the sending unit that which I can change in the triangle of death or something else entirely. It has great pressure once driving and the idiot light isn't coming on (that sensor is brand new also) when the oil pressure is that low at idle and engine is warm/hot.

https://youtu.be/c2e79rAQpsw

https://youtu.be/ZswYNf5SO-I