In a Quandary, NEED Advise/Input
 

Hi Fellow Pelicans, Here is my Quandary/Dilemma... SmileWavy

I have a 68 911 motor, in long block format and I also have a 1970 911T Motor with Matching transmission and Axels, complete with Air Box, Fan, Shroud. Only missing carbs which I have just bought a pair of Webers.

My Dilemma is I want to rebuild one of them and in order to fund the project, I have to sell the other. Which one do I keep and which one do I sell. I am a 1980 911SC and 1988 911 Carrera Steel Wide body with RUF modifications/upgrades owner. I know my later 911's but not the early years and their values. Unfortunately non of the motors are 911 S motors but never the less, the 68 and the 70 are still very valuable. Which one is the best one to hold on to? :confused:

My fellow Pelican's input is greatly appreciated....

George
San Diego.

I think it is at least partially dependent on who wants the motor. If you find the owner of the original chassis for one it would be more value to that buyer.

Sounds like you don't have a car for either engine? If you have a matching car for one of the engines keep them together. Is the 68 an L? If so it would have come with webers and a cam that is same as an E. It may be worth more than 70 T which would come originally with zeniths and would be a 2.2. Lastly if you take them apart which one needs the most work/parts? go with the one that's cheaper to fix. best Henry

Thank you,

I don't have a car for either motor. I would like to keep one of these motors so that I can fully rebuild it and find a roller to install it in. I am keeping one for sure. They are intact and I am going to sell one of them. Just not sure which one yet.

Both Motors are from a 911 "T" as per the Engine Codes.... One is a 1968 and the other is 1970.

Early S Reg has a Lost and found thread. Lost and Found Thread
Maybe the '68 could be worth more if the owner of the chassis is located.

I will check it out.

Thank you!!!

The 68 engine should have a counterweighted crank, whereas the 70T should have a non-counterweighted crank.

Forgive my ignorance, does the counter weighted crank make the 68 a more desirable motor then the 70?

Just a couple of comments. First, the 68 motor should be a 2.0 liter motor, while the later T motor should be a 2.2 block. The T block should be more plentiful than the 2.0 block, making the 68 motor worth more to someone trying to restore a 1965 through 68 car. Also, not sure when the change was made, but the first 2.0 motors had magnesium cases which were eventually changed out for aluminum in a later year. If the motors are in similar condition, I would think that the 68, which should be a rarer item, should command more money, yet the T motor has more potential.

Just my 2 cents.

I gladly appreciate the 2 cents, very very very helpful info. The casing number shows that both motors are for a 911T , based on www.frwilk.com -- ©2007 FR Wilk -- Best viewed size 1024x768 info. Is that accurate info that they provide? Both of my engine numbers show that one is 68 911T and the other 70 911T. I can definitely see how the 68 would be more desirable and perhaps more pricey. I will go ahead and post the 68 for sale for those who are seeking one and utilize the money from that sale to rebuild the 70 T since I have the matching transmission. My intentions are to find a 69/70/71 roller to fully restore into my fun car. I would still love to hear more input as this has been EXTREMELY educational. Now I just need to source out a complete engine rebuild kit for the 70 T and I am set.....

I knew my fellow Pelicans would not let me down.

Another question, how do I determine Magnesium case versus Aluminum??? is there a simply way to find out, like pouring acid over both and whichever burns a hole right through is one or the other??? LOL.. Just a joke for all the purists out there....

There are at least two ways. If the cases are identical, the magnesium case should be lighter than the aluminum case.

The second method, in staying with your "humor" is to put a torch to both cases. Magnesium burns. Aluminum melts! Not a suggested practice though since water will not extinguish a magnesium fire!! Just adding a little bit of levity to the discussion.

The first 1968 cases were aluminum, and the later 68 cases were mag. The aluminum case is FAR more valuable. Mag is a darker color... and look at the casting number on the side.

I find the counterweighted crank better, but not everyone agrees.

Thank you for all the input ROBLAV. I will check my motors and look for the casing numbers. I am not sure how to decipher them, but I will note them down here and hopefully you or someone else can help me figure it out.

If the 68 is Aluminum, I will more then likely sell that one and take the $$$ and put it into the matching number motor and trans. Do a full rebuild and then start looking for a roller to put it in.

Thanks to everyone else that replied as well....