Engine stand adapter, necessary?
 

Is it necessary to use the adapter for a standard engine stand? Will you damage the engine if you use the standard bolt supports cut to fit the 2.2 motor?

Hi, if you mean the standard "universal" plate with diagonal slots for sliding the spacers/bolts along, then I have seen various folk using them after searching the forums, but after seeing docrodg's comment below, I guess they've been on the ally case engines not the magnesium ones....I willingly defer to his knowledge!

I didn't feel comfortable using it with my build, as it's a turbo lump with a lot more weight than a N/A engine, once dressed with intercooler etc. I bit the bullet and bought a basket type from our hosts (I heard somewhere that Porsche used to use this type for supporting the flat-12 917 engine! :eek: )

The basket type also allows you to mount the flywheel and clutch assy - not sure if the universal mount would give you this, if it's important?

Cheers
Spencer.

The ring on the mount our host carries I what supports the weight, not the bolts. This is not true of the standard engine stand insert with four arms that you buy anywhere. While ok for a chevy iron block they would not work on a magnesium case as all that stress on the bolts would be likely to strip the threads right out.

I'm getting up the courage to drop my SC engine and replace the lower head studs. I don't intend to open the crank case.
Will an Al block motor hold its own weight on a 4 bolt universal stand?

The 2 bolt yoke works fine on mag case. Just use your head and don't lean/ tweak on it to excess.

As I won't be taking the flywheel etc off, I don't need to access the back of the block where the the 4 bolt stand attaches. So I guess I won't need the adapter/yoke.
I will be treading VERY carefully. Breakages = $$$

Anyone here mounted their engine without the adapter?

If you can modify a standard universal stand's arms so you can use all four bolts, you won't have any trouble at all, no matter what the case. I didn't know about hogging out some of the holes, so used only three with no problems. I think I used one with just two bolts (after removing the flywheel) on a mag case, but I've had the real deal stand for so long I can't quite remember.

I was able to use the much flimsier yoke made for VWs successfully on a 911 motor.

No stripped threads, anyway. Though some of the cases I have used have had Helicoil inserts in the stud holes, perhaps indicating they had, at some prior time, been stripped?

Thanks for the feedback gents. As mine is an aluminium block the threads should be strong enough even if I can only get 3. Ill be doing what I can to get 4 bolts on just to be safe.

An engine stand makes access to all parts very convenient. Be that as it may, due to space constraints, I once assembled an engine on a work bench, on top of a HD lazy susan turntable. For certain operations, I propped the crankcase on the flywheel end.

At a certain point in time (long block), move it onto a your eventual lift, in my case a large dolly I constructed with 8" caster wheels, high enough to roll a floor jack underneath to reinstall the engine. I installed the carbs and exhaust system after the engine was bolted into the chassis.

Sherwood

Is this what you had in mind?
Had no issues with using the standard 4 bolt arms on my 3.2

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1377309632.jpg

Exactly! Thanks for the pic. Shrtshck

btw your garage floor has the same "decoration" as mine :)

You may have no issues with those bolts for now but that is really not a good idea for that aluminum block and the four small shallow studs. Really, you need to buy borrow a proper engine mount piece.