Treading a mag block?
 

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Got my case savers from pelican today and am wondering if i need to leave any instuctions for the machineshop besides making sure the insert sits below the spiggot?
The tread is std metric 14x2 coarse, drilling for threading that is usually 12mm does this hold true for the 7R mag case, or do i need to go for 12,1 or 12,2 drill size to prevent cracks? Im new to Porsche engines and this is the first time ive come a cross a block in a magnesium alloy.

Please use a machine shop that does this on a REGULAR basis.....Or you will end up with a mess.
It takes a jig or they come out looking like a mad porcupine once the studs are instilled,, a good thing

I use a shop with a very good repuation. The reason i ask is that they are not a Porsche specialist, as there are not that many Porsche speciallists around where i live and thouse there are overcharge like you like hell. Not naming anyone, but i guy i know payed $12k for one of these shops to install a lsd in g50 an engineswap and some houses and materials to go with the swap!

OK, i do not know nothing can prove it most the time too!
BUT with the studs out its a pretty small box to ship to a machine shop that "KNOWS" how.
If you have a "mag "case there are several up dates you need done ( BTDT)
Shuffle pin, oil by pass mod, line bore more then likely, and a few more

You have got a point, when i get the block measured and if it the tolleraces are off on the spiggots or the main bearing seats its prob better to send if to a speciallist . But in that case im wondering if im not better of just buying another engine to rebuild, as the 2.7 seems to have the reputation of being a fragile piece of crap?

The 2.7 (all of them if updates are not done will cost the same)
Once they are in place it is a fine platform for what it is /was designed for.
Special care is needed.
a newer oil pump is a nice addition .
The number 7 nose bearing usually needs the thicker "O" ring I would do some research here to see what the best way is to go.
hopefully you have got rid of thermal reactors and the small fan.
A machine shop that does these all the time is your very best bet. You do not want to pay and educate someone.
Line bore and shuffle pin is just about a requirment

Thanks for the advice, im used to racebikes and chevy v8s and would perfer not to make any expensive mistakes as i got no experience with these engines. I just finnished reading Waynes "how to build and modify" is there any other litterature i should read on the subject?

Wayne's is really good. There were a few typo "O" or mistakes in there. Maybe start a thread or a search ..see what they were unless you have the newest copy.
Porsche engines are just like all other engines except completely different..LOL
Like i said, there is no use in educating a machine shop at your expense.
There are a lot of great shops around.....
Stay away from Motor Miyster or something like that...there is a whole thread on what a rip off they are.
Valves jobs are pretty straight fwd for most anyone that likes to do QUALITY WORK. NOT PRODUCTION.
A V8 Chevy is way simple compared to porsche.
Again,,dont pay to school someone.
If they have no idea what turning dwn a guide is or CC a head is not their regular thing Run forest Run

Buy Bruce Anderson's Porsche 911 Performance Handbook, 3rd edition, you need it and Wayne's book..

R/Dave

If (or perhaps that should be when) you line bore, you really want the shop to shave the case halves so the bores are all oval and can be line bored back to standard. You really don't want to get into using oversized OD bearings - hideously expensive. I made that mistake back when, before knowledge of the better approach was widespread.

YES!
There are so many reg. things a "shop " can / will do. But the off the wall shop might sell you a white elephant...it might work..........but could be so much the better

There are shops here also that can do anything you want and threading a new thread to install different stud (and doing it so that all studs are parralel) is done on many engines, not just 911 ones.

No ofense but I see absolutely no point in sending the engine case to US and back (with the expense of shipping+duties) when you can have it done either in Sweden or in Finland (R-Koneisto Oy) for much less. Really, we have 911's in norhtern europe also and they are rebuilt on regular basis, successfully.

Well here in America...drop it off at the local machine shop, it "Might" be the only one they have ever seen.
They sure as hell will not have jigs for shuffle pins, will not know what the "oil mod" is and the like

There are great shops on the continent as well, that will safe you money in shipping and tax. Just ask around in the Swedish Porsche community and else send it to Germany or the Netherlands

Thx for advice, i read about shops milling the block halfes and then drilling out the mains which sounds very smart as out get a good seal and can still use stock bearings. Anyone got an idea what doing "the works" to the block would cost at a serous Porsche speciallist? There is a Swedeish saying called "dumsnål" that translates into "stupid-cheap" considering how much i already spent on the car saving a few $ in machining costs is prob a stupid thing to do? Can anyone recomend a good shop?

Hello.

There is a very reputed machine shop in Varde denmark, reasonable prices, you can trust them and you can talk with them. they can do everything (head, twinplug, regrind cams, line drill, case saver, and more.) They work for some of the best porsche shops in denmark. I use them two times and are wery Impressed.
If you are interested the info are on this link. MN motorrenovering A/S

regards

Daugaard

In the end it's cheaper to buy a 3.2.... or a 3.6 if you want to maximize the bang for the buck.

I have had my magnesium case done at very capable machine shop used by a lot of Porsche specialists. It was around €4500 including ultrasonic cleaning, machining case halves and center-boring main and IMS bearings to original size, case savers, magnaflux inspection and super-finishing of the crankshaft and cams, re-bushing the drive-shafts, cleaning and checking both the cam-housing incl. checking rocker-shafts and rockers and the full refurbishment of the the heads. So basically the complete package. This guy removes all oil plugs to clean everything and has replaced them with threaded ones.
So quality doesn't come cheap.

I know, i just have a hard time making up my mind(have even considerd a LS v8 conversion). Just feels wrong that classic Porche engine shouldnt be worth rebuilding just because a rod bearing failed. But i see your point, spending close to $10k on rebuilding a engine that makes so little power in not a pleasent thought. Could ofc beadblast it and stick a sheet of glass on it to make an awesome coffietable.:)

Try Perrys Motor ,Strömsholm or Bo Strandell they can get you in touch with a machinshop that can do this work in Sweden .