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-   -   Pistons QSC 2,7 (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/786241-pistons-qsc-2-7-a.html)

Henry Schmidt 02-01-2014 08:06 AM

If this is a CE ring , it's broken and should not be installed. If it's an after market attempt to replace a CE ring it seems lame to design it with a split.
Many years ago, Bob at CMW tried installing a stainless wire (with a tiny end gap for expansion) that sat a little proud of the groove as an option to CE rings but if I remember correctly, that didn't yield very good results.
As for piston ring installation: In air cooled horizontally opposed engine, the ring gaps should be staggered at 120 degree intervals. Set all the ring gaps in a line is a sure way to create a transfer path.
Rings are designed to rotate in the ring groove during operation so after the engine runs for a few 100 hrs the gaps could be anywhere.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1391274097.jpg

HawgRyder 02-01-2014 11:03 AM

A long time ago I saw a different type of sealing ring.
It was a hollow stainless steel tube pressurized with an inert gas I think...and it allowed itself to crush slightly in order to seal.
I can't remember the application.
I wonder if something like that would be better in sealing because it would allow for slight deviations in the surfaces and still seal.
Bob

Lapkritis 02-01-2014 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Henry Schmidt (Post 7887124)
If this is a CE ring , it's broken and should not be installed. If it's an after market attempt to replace a CE ring it seems lame to design it with a split.
Many years ago, Bob at CMW tried installing a stainless wire (with a tiny end gap for expansion) that sat a little proud of the groove as an option to CE rings but if I remember correctly, that didn't yield very good results.
As for piston ring installation: In air cooled horizontally opposed engine, the ring gaps should be staggered at 120 degree intervals. Set all the ring gaps in a line is a sure way to create a transfer path.
Rings are designed to rotate in the ring groove during operation so after the engine runs for a few 100 hrs the gaps could be anywhere.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1391274097.jpg

Yep, all in agreement for once. Mark the date! ;) I could see how it sounds like I intended for all piston ring gaps to be at 12 o'clock which is not what I intended. I would avoid 6 o'clock for any ring on a horizontal cylinder as a best practice during assembly. If they move about eventually with vibration then that's fine. We follow the same rules with staggering ring gaps in non-Porsche engines such as v6 and v8 configurations. If you use a split head sealing ring on those engines you put the split to the top and nearest a fastener to prevent weeping when relaxed. You file the ends of the wire square and to fit.

The stainless wire requires a surface to bite into such as a gasket. The protrusion of the wire must be specific ratio to the thickness of the gasket to function properly. There are a few, as I'm sure you're aware, that also channel the head and locate onto the same wire that is channeled into the cylinder surface. I wouldn't recommend stainless wire ring into direct contact with the 911 head without re-designing for a sandwich gasket of copper and a ring on either side staggered in size... and I would adhesive sealant the whole party. If the OP has access to the machines then he could probably take it that far and adjust the deck height difference out.

crummasel 03-23-2014 07:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Henry Schmidt (Post 7886363)

Interesting approach, Henry. I know from other engine builds (non-Porsche) i made, this works perfectly well.

Where do you source such rings (or are they own-made?)

Meanwhile i got another project besides of the "housewives project" where 92 QSC were requested for a mildly improved 2,7 165HP US non-catalyst car as a cruiser. The guy agrees to be the guineapig and wants it and its me to have to make the best out of it.


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