Measure from the spigot surface. That is going to be the surface that dictates to what height your cylinders and heads reach.

My observations from playing with the stud installation depth last night tell me that a simple way of installing studs and not worrying too much about the height is to install a stud until it bottoms, back it out a 1/2 turn and you're fine. If it makes you happy, double check the length to see if you're near the 135mm general rule of thumb. But what really matters is that the stud is NOT bottomed in the case and that you have enough thread engagement in the nut.

Like Craig said, slip a cylinder and a head on one spigot, install a barrel nut (don't forget to install a THICK base washer) and see how much thread engages the nut when you snug it down. As long as you've got enough thread engaging the nut, and not too much thread such that it pushes your hex bit socket out of the nut tooling, you're fine.

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Will do just that - thanks.

It's amazing that if this bolt was on a shelving unit we would all dive in and do what ever makes sense.....but put it in an expensive German block and analysis paralysis ensues...

I practice the height of the stud isn't very critical as long as there is a reasonable depth of thread engaged and the barrel nut can be fully tightened.

The small variation in the installed length if you measure the spot faced stud locations will be insignificant in terms of performance.

The type of Loctite also doesn't seem very important as once the stud is fastened it is not very likely to come loose.

The stronger the Loctite the harder it will be to remove studs but if you look at the temperature recommended to break the studlocker there isn't much difference.

Loctite 270 - Green High Strength - Permanent Locking

Breakdown temp 250 deg C Minimum Cure time Stainless Steel 150 minutes - full strength 1 week.

It is interesting that the breakaway torque is very different between stainless steel and zinc plated steel

Cured for 1 week @ 22ºC,
Breakloose Torque, ISO 10964, Pre-torqued to 5 N·m:
M10 zinc phosphate nuts and bolts N·m 46
(lb.in.) (400)
M10 stainless steel nuts and bolts N·m 30
(lb.in.) (265)



Loctite 271 - Red High Strength - Permanent Locking

Breakdown temp 250 deg C Minimum Cure time Stainless Steel 72 minutes - full strength 1 week.

Loctite 243 - Blue For use when parts need to be disassembled with normal hand tools

Breakdown temp 250 deg C Minimum Cure time Stainless Steel 72 minutes - full strength 1 week.

If you really want a threadlocker that is easy to disassemble then you could try a low strength product such as :

Loctite 222 Purple Low Strength

The material of the stud also has an effect on selection.

The higher the strength of the threadlocker the more sensitive it is to an 'inactive' surface.

In active surfaces such as stainless steel (Dilavar for example) generally need longer cure times before they develop full strength but if temperature is low - less than 5 degC then they may fail to set.

Henckel generally recommend the use of a primer or activator with this type of material.

Activators also have another important feature that when they are used to coat the stud they also provide reasonably good electrical isolation which prevents galvanic corrosion.

The more passive the stud - stainless steels, Inconels etc the more likely there is for corrosion to occur in the reactive metal of the case.

The thread locker does provide some protection in this respect but using a primer will eliminate risk almost entirely.

We always use a primer for this reason. The cost is low and it can be brushed onto the thread and allowed to dry before using the thread locker. We also use a low strength locker which also generally has a lower viscosity.

Wow, what a tidbit. Thank you very much!

Here's the best way we found for cleaning threaded holes in the case.
Forming taps come in many different sizes so selecting the proper tap for your application is important. We use the PD 66-N because it seems the most appropriate for the stud we manufacture.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1393522017.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1393522098.jpg

I used an old steel stud that I cut groves in across the threads.
Good or bad??

Life experiences are our best teacher. If you find something that works well, use it.

Especially if your Dutch!

I did search about installing head studs and came across this amazing thread. I'm hoping not to hijack since it's been a few months. I got my case back from Ollies and with it, they included base gaskets, presumably the correct thickness to bring the spigots back to spec. The head stud should be installed to the specification of 133mm +- 0.5mm...plus the thickness of the shims supplied by the machine shop? I'm thinking they look close to about 1mm.

I'm not an expert and you're not hijacking. I went through all of this. I'd measure from spigot machined surface at 133 mm. The spigots stand off approx. 3mm from case and you're subtracting another mm with the 1mm shim/base gasket. Henry and Kevin pretty much covered all the bases on the previous page.