Weber 40IDA gushing gas - help!
 

Did I do something stupid?

I just put the rebuilt motor back in the car and in have many issues.
One (minor) one is that the car was leaking fuel where shown below with arrow 'A'.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1397945237.jpg

To try and get more clamp on the sealing washers I added a chamfer as shown.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1397945331.jpg

Now when I turn on teh fuel pump fuel gushes up through here..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1397945376.jpg

Why?
I didn't change the float settings or anything else...

Floats are not shutting off the fuel for some reason, those tubes are vents

How much fuel pressure are you running?

..
 

Not sure and cant start it to read the in line gauge now without a 2" plume of gas....

But it is the same as it was 15 minutes earlier before I added that chamfer and it didn't vent there. The other carb is still fine.

Can't figure it out.

And theres the answer:)

Did some of that metal from the chamfer go into the needle and seat?

How about you pull the top of the fractious carb off, and pull the float valves out. You can check/clean them to see if you got something in them, and check the passages while you are at it.

With the top off, but the fuel intake still attached, you could use small C clamps to hold the float valves full up, and then pressurize the system, to see if that works. Carefully.

I'd be perplexed, too, if this happened to me, though I suspect I'd have just replaced the crush washer that was leaking to see if that solved the problem.

Is a rubber(like) gasket normal in this application, rather than an aluminum or copper crush washer? I can't tell from looking at a parts diagram.

Thanks, will do.
Had replaced the crush washer to no avail...

..
 

Found it.

I must have put the top plate on at an angle. in doing so I bent the vertical tab on the float (the one at 90 Degrees to the tab you adjust float height with). This ended up at about a 20 degree angle from the adjustment tab and as such got hung up on the plunger body above.

This stopped the float raising enough to move the internal plunger and shut off the fuel.

Lesson learned.....always drop the top plate straight down on the body....

(Excuse poor Sunday night sketches...)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1398046952.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1398046970.jpg

'Grats!

It's been a while, but I'm pretty sure float height adjustment is done with shims under the float valve.

Typically you use shims for float adjustment, because you can do that without taking the top off the carb when you are checking or adjusting the level with a sight gauge. I even have used a rubber washer, as that allowed me to adjust without replacing shims.

But setting the carb up includes a measurement of the height of the tab on the float which pushes on the needle/ball/Gorse valve's tip, compared with a reference point. At least, if you are having issues you'd check this, because there is a spec for it. So bending a tab can be part of the deal. Those were fine diagrams.

Adjustment
 

Got this from a vendor - this is how I do mine. I was not adjusting floats when this happened though - just had the barb open and caused the issue inadvertently when closing it up apparently.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1398085077.jpg

Here you can see the bent tab and the semi-circular witness mark where it was catching on the plunger body and stopping the float raising to shut off gas.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1398096956.jpg