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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Phoenix AZ
Posts: 309
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Rebuilt 3.O Ltr. Runs Hot
3.0Ltr. New Rebuild Runs Hot
Help! I rebuilt a 3.0ltr. motor for my 1970E. 10:1 Pistons, S cams, Electromotive twin plug. Motor started immediately, runs smooth. temp starts to rise over 210 degrees continues up to 230 degrees. Timing is 5 Deg at 1000 RPM, Max timing is 30 degrees above 4000 RPM (checked both upper and lower timing to balance). Webers are 150 mains, 65 idle, 175 Air, F3 Emulsion and 36mm Venturi. Car has front fender oil cooler. Block oil cooler is working double checked thermostat. Oil lines to and from front cooler get hot so thermostat is working for front cooler. Bypass pistons and springs are new and correct for 3.0ltr. Checked temp sending unit with heat gun (very close to indicated gauge temp). When motor get hot oil pressure drops to about 15-20lbs. goes back up to 60 when motor cools. I have checked everything I know to check; any suggestions? Thanks for any help. David |
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Registered User
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I feel sorry for you.
If the oil just temp just keeps claiming you'll need to tear it down to see why? Did you clean parts with red rags they leave crap all over? this will do what your talking about. Could part of a rag be left into the motor? You do not have gaskets left over do you? Bad oil pump? Did you check the block and crank to see if it's all strait and clearances are good ? |
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Straight shooter
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What is the air to fuel ratio? How about ambient air temps? Things might be a tad bit hotter on a new rebuild while things bed in which is normal.
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“Of the value traps, the most widespread and pernicious is value rigidity. This is an inability to revalue what one sees because of commitment to previous values. In motorcycle maintenance, you MUST rediscover what you do as you go. Rigid values makes this impossible.” ― Robert M. Pirsig, Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values |
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Air Medal or two
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: cross roads
Posts: 14,072
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KISS KISS KISS
verify your temp sender and gauge is telling the truth. Thermostats, - yes they do break
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D troop 3/5 Air Cav,( Bastard CAV) and 162 Assult Helicopter Co- (Vultures) South of Saigon, U Minh Forest, Delta, and all parts in between |
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I would rather be driving
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 9,108
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David, Did you change the gauge unit? This could be simple as the 3.0 temp sender is different than the early engine. If I recall using the difference is about 20-30 degrees.
Try to pull the temp sender from the 2.2 and install it in the 3.0 and see if this makes a difference. Did you check with an IR non-contact thermometer?
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Jamie - I can explain it to you. But I can not understand it for you. 71 911T SWT - Sun and Fun Mobile 72 911T project car. "Minne" - A tangy version of tangerine #projectminne classicautowerks.com - EFI conversion parts and suspension setups. IG Classicautowerks |
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Registered
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What size Webers? 40 or 46? 150 mains sound small to me. I would think 160 to 165 would be closer. If the mains are too small the engine will run lean and get hot. I doubt anything with oiling is the problem. Like Lap asked; what the air-fuel ratio look like? Do you know how to check?
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Tell it like it is or don't tell it at all. |
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Registered
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Also, I'd back a little timing out to say 26 degrees all in, at least until you get the heat build issue straight.
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Tell it like it is or don't tell it at all. |
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Registered
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From what I've read, with a twin plug you need to use less advance. There are a threads on it if you want to search.
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Ed 1973.5 T |
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