3.0 Top End rebuilt realistic timeframe
 

Hey guys - I'm having my 1st engine rebuilt done by a reputable shop in Southern California, and from what I can tell they are doing a great job, and mindfully moving thru the rebuild process. Only thing is it's taking longer than originally estimated. When I dropped my car off they said the rebuild would take about 4-6 weeks (which I thought was quick) -- we're heading into week 10.

I don't imagine rebirthing one of these engines is an exact science, and i'm appreciative of the skill involved...so I'm happy to let the shop take as long as they need, but I thought I'd check in here and see if any of you who do this for a living could chime in and let me know if 9 to 10 weeks is a realistic or normal timeframe to get an SC motor rebuild and running. Thanks!

I would have thought 4-6 weeks was a long time for a business to rebuild an engine. At 40 hours a week that would be 160 hours minimum. Guessing 50$ per hour that would be $8000 for labour alone! I suspect they have lots of projects on and are not focussing on yours. I have had the same problem in the past. Go and complain. If they are really good then they should know exactly how long it is going to take. Did they give you a fixed price for labour for the job? Again, a reputable dealer will know pretty accurately how long this job will take and should be able to allow for all the usual problems in that estimate.

Tough one this ?put them on the line for a finish date and they may rush to meet your deadline,due to the cost of this work did you get any sort of detailed quote/estimate/timeframe on paper or just a verbal agreement?
Did they farm out the headwork to an outside shop maybe thats the hold up,sorry but 4-6 weeks seems a long time to start with ,best to be polite and friendly when you approach them and mention the time differance,good luck.

Pm

Thanks for the feedback -- It really helps to walk thru this here 1st before talking with them again on the phone.

I did get a detailed written cost estimate, and we're still in agreement on that. I didn't get a written time estimate.

Here's the plot to the story:

- They did send the heads out... nothing unusual was found after disassembly (which was fortunate). Just the 2 broken head studs that caused the rebuild in the 1st place.

- Shop recommended I upgrade the studs to racing. I agreed, meaning the bottom case was opened and inspected -- added a bit of time and $.

- Shop recommended Carrera Chain tensioners. I agreed, again a bit more $$.

- Once the engine was put back in and the shop started to tune it up, a hard to ID fuel leak was discovered coming from one of the CSI connections. Shop took the engine back out because it was easier to find and fix (no extra cost to me). I was happy they dropped the engine a 2nd time because the 1st time the full engine reassembly was complete, they reinstalled the engine without my having had the chance to see it... and this 2nd drop gave me the chance to see the engine out and snap a few pics.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1398959276.jpg

- Now the engine is back in, fuel leak fixed, but the engine runs at 2000 rpm and the guy doing the rebuild hasn't yet found the real cause.

I haven't applied pressure because I want them to do the best job, but yes... I think my car is sitting while they move a few other thru, and don't know the best way to apply pressure without losing their good will.

Not sure how "racing studs" means splitting the case? Sending out heads is fairly normal, and adds another shops lead time into the mix. That night account for the delay.

2000 rpm at start up or after it is warm. Sounds like a possible vacuum leak somewhere. Could be many other things as well. Without fuel pressure and timing data it is a guessing game.
Engine looks good though. :)

Guy doing the rebuild said to put a full set of new studs in (top and bottom row) it's not necessary to open the bottom, but easier to get the old ones out by splitting the case... the advantage being I get a fresh new seal and he can check the bottom end. Which is why I OK'ed it.

As for the high RPM, I think it's after warm up... my mechanic also suspects a vacuum leak, but having looked everywhere obvious is still not found the cause, which is taking time... trial and error, plus time to walk away mad and think of new things to try.

Cost?
 

Do you mind sharing the price? I'm getting my 1983 3.0 back in a few days. I'll have about $16,000 into a complete engine and trans rebuild. Block needed a line bore, polished crank, balanced clutch to crank. I feel it is being done right but they've had the engine since December. If I did it again I'd get a solid parts needed list prior to starting. It started at $12,000 but as they moved forward I would get a call every week of some part that was missing.
Ok, I'll share more than I originally intended. My engine and Transmission was dismantled at Motor Meisters and picked up after being there 11 months sitting in a box. My current shop should have detailed the scope of work needed so I could have found the missing parts at my cost not his price.
Sorry for venting- Your power plant looks great! Also try looking at your fuel line cold start heater (can't remember the name) It once caused a high idle on mine.