+1

Gotcha, I understand. Thank you.

A couple of great videos posted here, thanks Sherwood!

After giving it some thought, I decided to replace the chain rails. Originally I wasn't planning on it but decided that it was a good idea and since I was putting together an order it made sense. I'm glad I did to because I found this laying in the bottom of the left side case when I removed the old rail.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...1576feb020.jpg

It turned out to be a broken piece of plastic. No idea where it came from but I'm glad I found it.
In following Wayne's instructions for checking deck height this is the measurement I got

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...4a1c6498a2.jpg

I think I did it correctly by putting two pieces on the top of the piston torqueing down the head and then returning the #1 cyl back to TDC, removing the head and then measuring the thickness of the solder.

The machine work that was done is absolute piece of art. Anchor Atlantic did a phenomenal job on cleaning them up and reconditioning them. I also splurged and bought the super squirrel racing valve springs, retainers and ARP exhaust manifold studs.
An incredible job of of packing

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...235acd2db8.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...79824df1df.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...5295f3d7b8.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...608257479f.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...8d06370d4d.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...e1c1c94cb4.jpg

I can't tell you how happy I am with how nice these things turned out. I can't wait to get this engine back together and running once my car is finished.

Look great!!!

Thanks JJ, i was able to spend some more time on it today. Originally my goal was to get both side heads and cam towers on and torqued down but when i was torching the last barrel nut on the left side bank something didn't feel quite right. Almost like there was resistance and then it felt like the resistance was about to let go as I was bringing the nut to torque. I stopped and checked and the rod did not snap but it sure did feel like something was about to let go. I backed off the barrel nut as to not stress the rod and then brought the torque up to about 25 ft/lbs. but then I stopped because I want to think about this a bit. I feel like now if I try to do too much now without dealing with this potential problem I might end up breaking something because I will still be thinking about that one rod on the #3 cyl.

I feel good that my engine is starting to look like an engine again.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...f2f8c95233.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...82dc2b143c.jpg

If a rod does snap, do I have to split that cases or is it it possible to replace them with the cases still sealed together?

Factory rod bolts are "torque to yield" type fasteners, aka one-time bolts. Replace all if attempting to reuse them. Some recommend stronger ARP versions. In addition, Carrera rod bolts are smaller OD than SC bolts).

Sherwood

Okay Sherwood, I do understand that. Does that mean I would have to split the cases in order to remove the old rods to install the new ones, or is it possible to get the old ones out with the case halves still intact?

You can do it without splitting the case. I will be doing it this week myself. I have new rod bearings coming for my build after finding a kind of wear burnish mark on 1 bearing. All other looked very good. It's a trick to get them back in with the assembly lube on because they want to slide and fall, not stay stuck in place as you put the rod to the cap. Not all that hard to do.

+1. Very doable with the case together. Position each crank pin at TDC to install and assemble the con rod and cap with lube (install piston and cylinders later). Prep the area to avoid dropping rod nuts inside the engine. Support the rod cap from the opposite spigot and/or tilt the engine if needed to keep the cap in place when assembling the rod to it. A magnetic P/U tool can help start the nut onto the threads. See below for evidence of what can happen to ruin your day.

This is a cam housing nut, but you get the idea about fumbling fingers and gravity. I fashioned the slender p/u tool from parts of an inspection mirror, button magnet and shrink wrap:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1424714279.jpg

Sherwood

When I take the heads back off to do remove the headbolt studs, should I take them off as a whole unit like I did originally or is it better to seperate the heads from the cam tower and reseal it later? Sorry for all the newbie questions, I can't thank everyone enough for their input, I would not have gotten this far without it.

In searching the internet for information it appears as though the ARP and the Raceware head studs are pretty equal and the prices for both are almost the same. I'm about to make a decision to purchase a set, but before I do, is there any one reason why I may want to go with one set versus the other?

Yes, you could go with Supertec.

+1 on what Safe says. Henry from Supertec supports this forum and others with his knowledge. If you can swing it, go with his.

Take it all apart and reseal it.

Well, they are cheaper than Raceware , at least one Pelican...

Raceware is crazy expensive, if you buy the studs, nuts, and washers. ($675 is just for the studs)
If you shop around, ARPs are cheaper than Supertec by about $100.

I would remove them as a unit, no use redoing more work than necessary.

I would do rod bolts anyway. With 964 cams you will make power past 6800 rpms. 3.2 rod bolts are known to let go.