Fresh rebuild, no oil pressure

[ONQRACIng]

Fresh 3.6 race engine. Turbo pump, GT3 crank 100mm etc. Oil in tank, all new system. Oil at cooler fitting, cranking no pressure. Cam lines do not see oil flow if removed and cranked. Thoughts? I have -16 off the cooler now, should I crank and ensure pump spins? Open to all ideas. TIA

[ONQRACIng]

Pump spins, via looking into bore of oil feed port.

[MikeD]

Pressure relief valve stuck open?

[Lapkritis]

How long did you crank for?

[ONQRACIng]

Total time spinning (no spark or fuel, just cranking) 3 min.

[Flat6pac]

Might have knocked off the oil pump seal when dropping the second half of the case on the right side
Bruce

[Lapkritis]

Originally Posted by ONQRACIng

Total time spinning (no spark or fuel, just cranking) 3 min.

Any priming? Should have asked that as part of my question.

[HawgRyder]

The oil tank to pump should be all downhill (gravity feed) unless you got inventive and change the feed line (I found one on one car that looked beautiful...but had an upward kink in it) and had an air lock.
I vote with Flat6pac .... the rubber Oring (gasket) is the most likely.
As Andrew suggested...perhaps priming it might solve the problem...if it doesn't and oil pours out of the oil drain as you are priming ... then the gasket IS the problem.
Bob

[ONQRACIng]

Engine is coming back out to be split this weekend.

[MBEngineering]

HI ONQRACIng

if the seal is missing, pull the drain plug in the crankcase, it should be full of oil from the pump.

regards mike

[ONQRACIng]

Thanks Mike, All. More details on the build.
3.0 Case
100mm JE
R&R custom Rods
GT3 crank
I will drop the sump cover and see what flows, but at this point, opening is the best way forward.

[ONQRACIng]

Case is apart,all seals seem present. I noticed all green seals? all races are as new not a scratch on a bearing. thoughts?:

[itsme]

Too bad the case is split as there are some other things that could have been tried. Sticking a piece of clear hose into the engine oil feed port and stick the other end in a container of oil to see if there was any suction. Also using a funnel and another hose in the same port to force feed the pump some oil to prime it. Use a long hose jammed into the port and hold the funnel higher then the engine and let gravity fill it. Whats the history on the pump? New or used? Can you see both sets of gears through the ports? On both suction and pressure sections? If the pump is good and it turns then either it needed to be primed or there is no oil getting to the feed port. Stupid question but, when you remove the oil feed hose was there oil flowing from the oil tank? Man that's a lot of work to find out the seals were there. I feel for ya. If the pump is good then your going to have to seal it up again and go through the process again. While its apart , you did check both sides of the pump for seals right?

[ONQRACIng]

Well I think in the long run splitting was and is the best route. Full race and we tear down after 30 hours either way. I just reviewed the build list, and we do not know the exact history of this pump. We sold our original when we were leaning towards just running our 2.9 stroker. When we decided to rebuild the 3.6 we bought a pump from the board. Seems like the one unknown. I will tear into this pump later today to see whats going on with it, if anything. More to follow

[Jim2]

Chris from TurboKraft on the 930 forum rebuilt a 930 motor and had a similar problem. He eventually deduced those green oil pump seals were the wrong dimension and allowed enough air in that the pump wouldn't draw oil. The seals were from Victor Reinz. He bought some seals from Wrightwood which were the proper dimension.

[Steve@Rennsport]

Originally Posted by Jim2

Chris from TurboKraft on the 930 forum rebuilt a 930 motor and had a similar problem. He eventually deduced those green oil pump seals were the wrong dimension and allowed enough air in that the pump wouldn't draw oil. The seals were from Victor Reinz. He bought some seals from Wrightwood which were the proper dimension.

Yep,..thats precisely what happens with the VR (and even factory) seals. We don't use any VR gaskets/seals/O-rings anymore.

[ONQRACIng]

Seriously?Does our host know this? Just picked up a full engine seal set to get me back on track, if these are my issue, seems I just wasted 300? Wrightwood will not sell direct..

[65rsr]

Check the driving shaft / driving wheel key!

I had a strange experience with a brand new defective 930 oil pump. Pump was a brand new (not rebuilt) factory original 930 oil pump that would work perfect on the engine dyno for a few quick pulls, but once it was run on a chassis dyno for a longer duration and at higher temperatures it would instantly lose oil pressure. After letting thing cool down, you could crank the engine and get pressure, again on the dyno everything would be fine and then suddenly, no oil pressure. Scavenging issue? Seals? Air? Plumbing? No. The culprit was a missing, never installed at the factory Woodruff key (is that the right term?) for the driving wheel on the driving shaft. It was never installed during assembly. There must have been enough of a compression fit for the wheel to stay on the shaft until things got hot at high rpms.

[ONQRACIng]

pump comes apart tonight, if the bore is clean, and all gears look good, I am leaning towards seals..

[Lapkritis]

Originally Posted by Jim2

Chris from TurboKraft on the 930 forum rebuilt a 930 motor and had a similar problem. He eventually deduced those green oil pump seals were the wrong dimension and allowed enough air in that the pump wouldn't draw oil. The seals were from Victor Reinz. He bought some seals from Wrightwood which were the proper dimension.

That's unacceptable. Has anyone contacted Victor Reinz so they can pull back their inventory that went with these out of spec bits?