2.2T engine upgrade advice
 

I've read through a number of posts on this topic, but would just like some further advice on upgrading my 2.2T engine. Its a 1970 2.2T, completely stock, in good running condition and using Zenith carbs. Its for street use only, and I'm not looking for huge hp gains. I'd like something in the range of 160-180hp, and more than anything I'd like the engine to 'sing' when it revs. Not really fond of the tractor like feel of the T engine at higher rpms.

So, I'm thinking of the following:

-high compression pistons & cylinders, possibly the aa pistons (due to price)
-weber carbs (or is there anything i can do to make the Zeniths work?)
-s cams (or e?)
-possibly reporting the heads.
(the above should cost ~$5k in parts i believe)

A few questions:
-Can i get by with my T crank?
-Should install oil squirters, and is this even possible in my engine?
-Any other parts I should be looking at gathering?

Any other suggestions or comments are welcome as well...

Thanks in advance!

I'd go with "E" PCs and DC30 S Mod cams. The T crank will handle it.

I would keep your original steel cylinders and have them machined to overzise. Maybe even go for 85mm and get some custom made JE high CR pistons with them. Same price as a set of AA but high quality stuff. Check if your current T cams can be reworked to get a bit more HP out of the higher CR.

GE, I'm in the process of assemblying my upgraded 1971 2.2T. You will find many opinions. My car will be street driven, with an occassional autocross. After much research, and upon the advice of JB Racing, the following is what I decided. I found a dyno sheet for a similar engine that had a high, flat torque curve and good horsepower; should be able to rev to 7200 rpm.

1. Bore the stock cylinders to 85 mm and install 9.5:1 JE pistons;
2. Solex cams. Webcam can regrind your T cams, or, occassionally, you can find Solex cams in the classified.
3. Machine work - oil bypass mod; check rods, crank and case; rebuild heads with new valves and guides (all stock); I was advised that squirters were not needed for my application, but I'm sure you will get varying opinions.
4. There are mods that can be made to the Zeniths, which I am doing, but my understanding is they will not be perfect (larger venturies and jets).

I suspect your cost estimate is low.

Hope this helps.

dho

I'd venture a little further concerning the P/C's. I think it's more attractive to get new P/C's and maybe sell the cast units to recoup a few $. Cast iron cylinders generate more heat and don't dissipate it as well as the Biral's or Nikasil's. Mahle's are through the roof both used and new making the AA stuff very attractive. But, AA has quality issues specifically hardness of the cylinder walls. For my 2.4, I settled on the 86mm AA set worked over by Supertech. They added Nikasil to the cylinders to combat any quality issues with the Chinese biral coating. I also had Henry add the Calico skirt and piston top coatings to the JE forged pistons. It's a little more expensive going that route but I feel better that Henry has worked these over and they are still WAY less than even a used set of Mahle's. It's my understanding that 84mm 2.2 and 2.4 spigots can accept 86mm cylinders without enlarging/machining. I don't know if there are differences in the heads between 71 and 72 that would keep you from doing this. It's worth looking. 84mm to 86mm takes you from 2195cc to 2300cc...no replacement for displacement.

In 72, all the Porsche T, E, and S cranks were counter balanced. Prior to that, Porsche used non-counterbalanced cranks and cast cylinders on, I think, the 68-71 T's to save money. To answer your questions, absolutely yes, counter balanced or not, if yours is still in speck, have it polished press on. If it isn't in standard spec, look for another one that is. 66mm throw, counter balanced or not, should work. Having the crank ground and heat treated is expensive and the .10 under bearings are very high.

Squirters: You may want the extra cooling for your modest upgrades. I'm not sure I've seen any arguments/discussions suggesting not to install them in cases that don't have them. It's a factory upgrade for the 2.4 and most everything I've seen says if you don't have them, get them.

I'd recommend going with the JE pistons instead of AA. The AA and QSC are replica cast pistons with a less than optimal clip design for the wrist pin. The piston design does not provide reliefs for high lift cams either... JE's are only a little more cost wise while providing more confidence and flexibility. I would recommend thermal barrier coating the piston crowns, combustion chambers and inside exhaust ports/headers.

-Pistons/Cylinders: $1500 84mm JE/Birals
-Weber Carbs: ~$3000 used... need to get a little lucky as retail is even more.
-solex cams: ~$800 or lucky in classifieds if someone is unloading.
-Flycut heads/clean/Eibach high rev springs: ~$1200
-Gaskets/Sealants/cleaning materials: ~$400

Then consider:
-Re-plate or new hardware throughout
-Powdercoating tins/fan
-Alternator rebuild/service
-belt(s)
-engine mounts/mount hardware
-oil and filter for break-in
-RS rocker shaft seals
-clutch service/trans output seal
-chain ramps/tensioners
-oil tubes
-oil lines
-Timing chain/cam tools
-and on it goes

:)