Some hard stuff over my rear crank seal + identify parts

[smurfbus]

79 930.




The center crank seal was dry before I removed the flywheel. Is this glueing normal or should I leave it alone in fear of whats under it. Crank and rod bearings were renewed 10k miles ago. I got over rev -->broken rocker arm syndrome with exhaust valves leaving marks on 5 cylinders. Carillo rods with some strange rod bolt markings CARR SPS 17 and SPS 28? Could not google anything over those?



Do those cylinder bolts with black paint refer to dilavar? They were 138-139mm from the case and IIRC the spec was about 133-134?


Do these exhaust valves look like they are steel though? I need to scrape some of that carbon buil up the see if there is a dimble in the middle.

[tocobill]

Studs ... does a magnet stick to them? If not they are divillar. Anyone who would have added after market studs would not have painted them black.

Carrillo rods ... nice upgrade from the PO. The rod bolts might be a sequence number from a manufacturer for carrillo. I got rods form RR with ARP rod numbers of varying numbers ... ie 32 and 24. After inquiring with RR they told me this was a batch number and there was no difference. I would talk to Henry or Steve on this as they would have more info being closer to carrillo then either of us.

Rear Crank seal ... I would leave it. If the crap around the seal is holding then I would leave it. I cant tell what it is from the pics. It doesnt look like JB weld or another type of normal engine sealant ... especially if its hard. Im sure the bolts came with the rods so I would worry about it. IF you really want to open the bottom end up then do it but the bearings from Porsche and Gylco suck right now so know this before you rebuild ... there are no guarantee. Steve or Jerry are the only guys with bearings that are not having issues right now. I got a set of GT3 bearings from Henry via Porsche and coated by Calico and Im not feeling so hot about installing them as they are Glyco with all the issues now a days. I have RR rods on a worked 993 crank, turbo oil pump and new pistons. I also have the needed crank mods and case mods for a 7K plus engine. I have installed and measured them well within spec but the current glyco stories are not making me warm and fuzzy.

10K on the bottom end I would leave it and just fix the top end at this point .... JMHO. Save your money for later.

[smurfbus]

Thanks. I'm currently gathering parts for the top end and Supertec studs are on the list. Sodium/natrium filled exhaust valves and stock piston rings too, the barrels are 10 yrs old C2 turbo barrels. Need to do some measurement first and send the heads for valve and guide swap on the exhaust side. I wasn't aware of the current bearing drama so I need to invest some more and really consider leaving the case closed.

[TimT]

SPS bolts are some very high quality hight strength fasteners..good stuff

SPS Fasteners

[smurfbus]

The studs were magnetic? What could they be?

Rod bolts:
"These look to be 3/8 CARR bolts same as the S6 bolt in our instructions sheet. We recommend tightening these by stretch of 0.005-0.007” not to exceed 58ftlbs"

[tocobill]

My guess is they used the later 993 steel studs when they rebuilt. Seems like who ever did the rebuild put some thought into it for the next guy.

[smurfbus]

But now that they are 138mm long should they be replaced anyway? Is that 133-134 speck for all studs?

[Jeff Alton]

Some new replacement steel studs come with black paint on them, just installed a set. A few years ago they came with grey paint on them....

Stud height is a factor of how deep they get set on install, not overall length before install.

I am not sure what the builder was thinking with that RMS install.