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-   -   2.7 leak (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/856473-2-7-leak.html)

dagriff 03-17-2015 12:09 PM

2.7 leak
 
Hi all,

Steve@Rennsport 03-17-2015 12:47 PM

Griff,

If I might offer a suggestion,......

Please describe the location of your oil leak, sharp pictures really help, without making someone watch a shaky video (about made me ill) for several minutes. :) :) :)

This will assure that people read your post and offer constructive & useful solutions to your problem.

I couldn't watch that video, but if you have leaking through-bolt, covering it up with sealant is a poor "repair" and no real solution at all. These have O-rings behind them at each end and if they leak, the only real fix is to pull the engine, remove the heads, and pull one through-bolt at a time to replace the O-rings at each end.

Tightening it simply puts the crankshaft and its bearings into a bind and that has very bad (expensive!) consequences.

dagriff 03-17-2015 02:01 PM

Here is a photo

Steve@Rennsport 03-17-2015 02:46 PM

Check the torque on that nut and its matching bolt to be sure its at spec. You can replace the aluminum crush washers, too.

Eagledriver 03-17-2015 04:30 PM

I think that is the end of a case stud. It has pulled inside the case. A proper fix means splitting the case.

-Andy

Heinz911 03-18-2015 01:00 AM

This indeed is a case stud that holds the bearing for the intermediate shaft in place. If you are lucky you just need to tighten it to 25Nm, but more often the stud is pulled out of the case and that means trouble. Though a guy on the Dutch Porscheforum had this fixed without splitting the case. An engine workshop drilled the hole to a bit larger diameter and put in a helicoil. A risky repair with no guarantees, but worthwhile as all other options require a full rebuild.

dagriff 03-18-2015 06:27 AM

Thanks all.
Iide.

eastbay 03-18-2015 01:49 PM

It's already pulled, just remove the nut and unscrew the stud and pull it out. Clean out the metal thread debris with carb cleaner and then use a metric tap to thread the hole (8mm?, I can't remember)and insert a short bolt with new crush washer. Leak fixed.

Put the stud in you parts collection and when you go through the motor you can fix it then and the little bit of threading you did on the outside of the case hole will not matter.

cgarr 03-18-2015 05:05 PM

When doing case savers this is one of the other areas we also use an insert. But until you pull everything apart for a rebuild just do as said above.

Heinz911 03-19-2015 12:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eastbay (Post 8536610)
It's already pulled, just remove the nut and unscrew the stud and pull it out. Clean out the metal thread debris with carb cleaner and then use a metric tap to thread the hole (8mm?, I can't remember)and insert a short bolt with new crush washer. Leak fixed.

Put the stud in you parts collection and when you go through the motor you can fix it then and the little bit of threading you did on the outside of the case hole will not matter.

The leak is solved but the IMS bearing is not being supported. If oil can come out, the case halve are not compressed together anymore. That will lead to an unbalanced IMS and maybe more damage (chain sprocket, pump, shaft) and you need to split the case to fix this for sure.
I would take the risk to try a real fix without splitting the case, but it is not my car.

Here is a picture of what the inside looks like (bottom right stud)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315703922.jpg

dagriff 03-19-2015 05:47 AM

Ah-Ha.... now I get it!
Thanks.


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