CIS cleaning parts / replace??
 

Aloha, I am cleaning up my CIS for install and I have a few questions.

1. The injector tube ends are corroded, the injectors were stuck and I had to whack the injector with the 12mm to get them to pop out. How can I clean them? Can I use scotchbright?

2. This copper tube slides in and out of the ferrule. It is not very tight. Is it supposed to be tight?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1427760350.jpg

3. Should I replace this hose? If so, what is it called or is it just ordered by the ID?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1427760532.jpg

4. Is there a sealant or grease on the rubber intake sleeves to the airbox or are they installed dry.

I'll be back with more questions in the near future.

Cheers, Mike SmileWavy

That copper line should not be loose. It's crimped at that point. It can be fixed by cutting the crimp off with the dremel. Slice it carefully and replace the crimp with an oetiker type clamp or a fuel injection line clamp.

Yes, replace that hose. It looks like normal breather hose that is rated for oil contact. You might find that you can get a short piece of fuel line for that.

I would think SB would be good to clean up the parts. Make sure to get all new o-rings and inspect anything made of rubber for cracks. This FI system hates vacuum leaks!!

Thank you. What about the rubber intake sleeves? Glued, lubed or dry install?

1) Why worry about a little surface corrosion on the exterior of the injector barrels? If it bothers you, just use a suitable mild abrasive to get it off. What you want to know is spray pattern and cracking pressure.

Easy to check spray pattern - spray carb or brake cleaner into the tube, and hit it with your air blower chuck and see what the pattern looks like. Seems like anything less than half a cone is no good.

I've never built a setup to check cracking pressure, but I've never had one dribble on me either, and it would be nasty if it continued to send some fuel into a cylinder for 20 or so minutes after you shut off the engine.

4) I've always put the sleeves on dry, but I suppose a little soap or glycerin wouldn't hurt. But gluing sounds like a nightmare in the making when it comes time again to remove. They are captured between what they attach to, so don't come off anyway.

Walt, I am talking about the fuel line and ferrule that goes into the injector. I want them to be clean to seat in the injector. I have new injectors. Can I use scotch bright on those? Got it about the sleeves. Thank you. Cheers, Mike.

Oh, you mean the sort of ball and socket connection? Yes, moisture can get down around the hole in the top of the ferrule, and rust as far down as where the seal is made. Functionally, as long as there is a clean line down close to the center, where 360 degree contact is made, you shouldn't have a problem. You could Scotchbrite them, though I'd be careful doing that with the injector part - this stuff has a bad reputation among some engine builders, who say it leaves particles all over the place. You can blow those out of the lines, but it is tricky to backflush the injector. Possible, but tedious to lift the pintle, lasso it with a very thin wire which you can stick up inside a rubber hose which fits pretty tightly over the injector, and into which you can blow air - and solvent as well.

Maybe someone has a better system to clean them up - though moisture will still get down in there over time, but not deeper.

Thanks, didn't think about the scotch bright disintegration factor. I'll use something else. No sense in tempting fate. :)

Install them clean and dry.
As for cleanig the metal fittings, I got some brass wool from Lowes and use it with a little ATF, then wipe it clean.

Thank you all so much. Off the the garage. Cheers.

New injectors, sleeves, O-rings and rubber sleeves. No assembly yet, just more cleaning. I have dishpan hands...;)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1428197136.jpg

It is very well worth it to check the air box for any air leaks and to fix them while things are apart...

How would I do that?