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Engine Drop
Gents -
I'm trying to drop my motor today. I've purchased a furnture table lift from HF to aide in dropping the motor and trans. do i lift the table up to the motor nice and snug and then remove the mount bolts? trans mounts first and then rear motor mounts? all help is appreciated, my first drop and solo nonetheless. here are some photos, i put a 2x4 under the engine case/ oil sump pump as i was told not to put all the weight on the heat exchangers. also, i have the car lifted up to 36" is that suffcient? the furniture table sits 11" when lowered. everything has been disconnected, do you guys zip tie your axels up onto something or just let them hang low? cheers, Tom http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1431807188.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1431807203.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1431807217.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1431807231.jpg |
this is an 1982 911 SC FYI.
Cheers, TF |
Put 2 bolts and nuts back in each axel so they don't come apart
If you don't get high enough, put a piece of 2x6 under chassis center and floor jack to needed height. Bruce |
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thanks for the advice about the 2x6. cheers, Tom |
Allow it to sit on the HX. This will get as low as you can go!
Just go slow when going down. Drop 2 inches, then check for hang ups. Drop 2 more, check again top and bottom. Lather rinse repeat. Not hard to do just a real tension convention first time. |
Jon
Thanks for the advice. I went slow, saw a few hang ups on fuel lines and the speed sensor, BUT I got it out! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1431888994.jpg Now, of course with many first time engine drops I've ran into a couple issues. 1) I've broken my oxygen connector, the one in the engine bay http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1431889211.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1431889733.jpg Is the only way to replace this by finding a new harness? Can Timmy2 fix this? Also, I had a wire connector pull apart. This is located on the end of the transmission. I thought it was the speed sensor at first so I disconnected it and when I tried plug in, the connector fell off. What is it? And how do I replace this? Just get a new connector and re clamp the wires back down? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1431889670.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1431889686.jpg I suspect this being the cause of my oil leak. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1431889876.jpg Any advice helps Cheers T |
Good work!
Maybe some epoxy on the broken O2 plug. That is the reverse lights switch. Solder on some new bullet connectors. That's the triangle of death we right there, looking nice and wet with oil. |
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- Manfred |
On your transmission connector, You can buy crimp on bullet connectors that will work just fine. Or if you want to keep it original get a soldering iron and put the wire back in the original. All you have to do is heat it up, old solder comes out, slide in wire and put in new solder. Me, I went the easy way with the crimp on.
On your 02 sensor wire, could you just use some super glue or epoxy like another suggested? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1431947768.jpg |
All the O2 connectors are broken from up to 35 years of use.
There was a man on pelican that had a replacement part made up which was convenient and worked well, don't know what happened there. Bruce |
The guy from CA.......
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I got a couple of OXS connectors from Louie85. He did supplied members with these replacement part a few years ago and could still be doing it. Tony |
How many miles on the motor?? As long as it's out maybe you should check headstuds et.
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Gents -
your all lifesavers. i picked up a connector from Louie85 today. thank you, Louie! Dpmulvan - i have a broken odometer so I'm sitting around 100k (guesstimate). i haven't heard anything but planned on pulling the valve covers and adjusting valves while its out, so i plan to check those for sure. how difficult is it to add cams to my car? i have a set of 46mm PMOs and was thinking of going with 964 grind cams. is it the cam timing that is the most difficult? what else would i need just a recurved distributor? also, i have the smaller head ports, can people really bore those out with the heads attached to the block? anyone in the SW Michigan area that wants to do mine? Cheers, Tom |
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