I agree, that is what I did last night. No. 1 rocker was loose. Cheers.

In the picture of the distributor your rotor @TDC Z1 needs to be approaching the line of the distributor, not past it.
I suggest that you're dist is one cog off. Pull distributor and rotate clockwise 1 cog on the bottom of the distributor.
Bruce

Double check your valve clearance.......
 

Speed,

Heinz has a very good suggestion and unless you have confirmed this condition, there is a likely hood your are 180 deg. off. I have read your initial post even before Bruce A. responded and kept following your saga. If you could check and confirm Heinz's suggestion and use an inductive timing light to test all six (6) ignition wires would give you a better picture of the situation.

I am about to do another SC start up very soon and the first thing I perform is to verify that I have a good source of ignition sparks for all injectors at the correct ignition timing followed by fuel pressures check and others. If I could not make the engine start on the first turn of the starter, I would be disappointed on my work. Let's say on the second try. Nine out of ten engine start ups, I was successful running the CIS engines on the first turn of the ignition switch.

Except for the low system fuel pressure @ 4.5 bar, the data you collected should be good for start up. One thing missing is your valve clearance/s @ Z1 compression (ignition rotor) pointing to the scribed mark on the dizzy.

Don't give up yet. I am taking a rest period after an eye yesterday morning and not allowed to go to the garage until Thursday and no lifting of weight more than 25 lbs. for a week. Let's tackle this together and get your motor running again.

If you could confirm Heinz's suggestion, presence of strong ignition signals for all six (6) ignition wires, fuel delivery during cranking, and it won't start, there is another last thing you need to test (will hold for the meantime). Keep us posted.

Tony

Thank you all. I will do the timing light test tonight. I'm at work so won't be for about 5 hours (unless I can bug out a little early). I'll post the results.
Thanks again. I wouldn't have even tried the trans rebuild without this board and now am close to an engine rebuild. Inconshevable....(Vizzini) :D

Ok, update. I put the new blaster coil on. BUT, when I checked for voltage across 31d and 7 on the CDI terminals I got no voltage. 12+ on terminal 15. Does this mean the CDI is shot??
5 ohms across rotor.

There is supposed to be a high wining sound from the cd.
Unplug the 12 volt feed to see if the wine is detectable.
Put stock coil back in if its a 001
Bruce

I get the whine with both. The old coil is 0221121001, is this the one you want me to put back on? Thank you for your time.

Edit: Stock coil back on

That's the coil,, back stock til you get it running
Bruce

K thanks. What's next?

I have back fire when it cranks. Is it possible, as some have said, my dizzy is a tooth off? I can get it to point right at the notch with the play in the hold down groove. The
Rotor has a lot of plat in it. I would call it 5 degrees. Is this too much?

I have to have something hooked up wrong. As Tony said he cranks 'em right up. This is taking too long. What could I have done that would cause this no start condition?
What about the no voltage situation between 7 and 31d in Bentley?

I hope you haven't broken your airbox with all this backfiring :(

Me too!

Feedback.........
 

Speed,

You are doing things left and right. You have no definite course of action and your feed back is not too good. If you think you are frustrated, imagine the people wanting to help you. The reason I was not getting involve earlier was your failure to communicate (timely feed back). You are here simply because you needed help and plenty of help is available.

Let's slow down and get to the basic questions:
1). Are you getting strong ignition signals using an inductive timing light? Are all the six ignition wires getting strong signal?
2). Do you have consistent and strong cranking of the starter?
3). Are you sure you have the correct valve clearances for all six cylinders?
4). Are you getting spray mist from all 7 injectors? Yes, seven!
5). Did you pressure test the air box before installation?

Let us know your answers to these five (5) questions and I will give you more to answer. I have not encountered a CIS engine I could not make to run. I would even offer to pay you if I could not make it run! That's how easy to get a Porsche CIS engine to run. Stop guessing and you will be successful. BTW, did you tinker the fuel mixture screw setting? Keep us posted.

Tony

Tony,
1, no I have not done that yet.
2, yes
3, yes, .004 on all valves
4, no getting baby bottles tonight, test tomorrow
5, no sir
BTW, yes. Idle fuel mixture screw turned it counter clockwise yesterday.
Got it. I'll not post again till I do those things.
Thank you.

CIS troubleshooting assitance.......
 

speed,

Since you are doing all the work in locating and identifying possible culprit/s, we (the readers) have no idea what's going on. Unless you reply to a specific question that was asked, it would be difficult for us to know what have you done so far. You asked a question we give you a reply and vise versa.

Why did you adjust the mixture setting? That's the last thing you touch or tinker when doing a fuel injection troubleshooting. The mixture calibration is for fine tuning to minimize CO pollutant in the exhaust. Your main goal is to get the engine to start and idle during a start up. Ignore your mixture at this point if you could not even make the engine to start. Once you are able to consistently get the engine to start and run, go to the next level and tune it up. You can not tune a non-running engine!

Could you pull out all the spark plugs and take pictures of the electrode? Like to see the color of the electrodes at this stage. Keep us posted.

Tony

I adjusted the mixture setting because rockreid said his no start condition was because of the adjustment being far out of adjustment. Pics of plugs tomorrow. Thank you.

I hope I am not coming across as unappreciative. I am very appreciative of all the help I am getting. I am following directions from the posters and am not doing things on my own. Maybe my posts are answering questions from others and it seems disjointed and for that I apologise. Thank you all for the help.

You turned the 3 mm Allen CCW you leaned the system.
Force start the engine turn the key to on. Lift the airflow sensor charging the fuel into cylinders
Turn key to start. You have fuel and compression, if your spark is correct it will fire.
Bruce

double check firing order , don't ask why ;)

I have done that. I'm to the point of taking all the wires off and rerunning them. They are numbered. I'll do that first and then check fire on each wire as Tony has told me to with the stock coil.