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Loctite, Anti-seize, or ????
I would like to have a listing of recommendations from the experts for thread lubricants and or thread lockers for a 911 engine assembly.
So here are the fasteners and options. Head studs in case; red Loctite unless Supertec Rod bolts; Red Loctite unless ARP then ARP thread lubricant. Case through bolt nuts; oil, blue Loctite ? Case perimeter nuts; oil, blue Loctite? Head to cam housing; oil, blue Loctite? Head nuts; anti-seize, oil? need to be re-torqued. Oil pressure sender, anti-seize, teflon tape, pipe thread sealer? Oil pressure relief spring plug; anti-seize, teflon tape, pipe thread sealer Chain ramp bolts; ??? Flywheel bolts; Blue loctite Cam nut; ???? Rocker shaft nuts; ???? External nuts, valve covers, etc; ????? I have searched and have not found this info. If it has already been posted, I will kill this posting. |
Searched for "sealants" in "911 Engine Rebuild" forum and turned up a ton of threads on this subject. You might start with this one.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/284737-complete-engine-sealant-thread.html |
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If I missed it on what page of the 18 in the thread was it discussed? thanks, |
I admit, it's not a subject I struggled with when building mine, but potentially useful reference. Could I just make one suggestion? Rather than refer to Loctite as "red" or "blue", could we use their product numbers? Compounds change as the years go by, and multiple products may have the same colour (and lets not even go there with being colour-blind!)...but if product numbers are used, then its far easier to find superceding products.
Just my 2p ;) |
Step away from the Blue loctite. Or at least as much as you have it listed. You will be using a lot of nylock nuts which require no loctite. You will also be using a lot of wavy washers which require no loctite. I really like the ARP thread lube for the through bolts, rod bolts and head stud nuts. Other than that, just buy the sealant kit Henry sells for $100. But seriously, very little blue loctite. LOL
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Oh, and no teflon tape or pipe sealant. Nowhere... nowhere on your Porsche!
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Teflon tape is that bad? I just put some on my oil pressure gauge and my oil pressure sensor. So I should remove the Teflon tape?
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Head studs in case; red Loctite unless Supertec Medium strength blue is sufficient for all
Rod bolts; Red Loctite unless ARP then ARP thread lubricant. I always question why high strength red has found its way into factory rod bolts. They don't come loose. Yes, I strongly recommend the ARP for their bolts in stock rods. It makes a difference. Case through bolt nuts; oil, blue Loctite ? No threadlocker needed here. Case perimeter nuts; oil, blue Loctite? No threadlocker needed here Head to cam housing; oil, blue Loctite? No threadlocker needed here Head nuts; anti-seize, oil? need to be re-torqued. Anti seize. Factory Porsche flavor is called Optimoly HT which is basically a high temp. copper antiseize made by Castrol Oil pressure sender, anti-seize, teflon tape, pipe thread sealer? No sealer needed here. It has an aluminum alloy sealing washer. Oil pressure relief spring plug; anti-seize, teflon tape, pipe thread sealer No sealer needed here. It has an aluminum alloy sealing washer Chain ramp bolts; ??? No sealer needed here. It has an aluminum alloy sealing washer Flywheel bolts; Blue loctite Typical recommendation is red loctite. But this came about from the 6 bolt cranks having loose flywheels. The later 9 bolt cranks don't experience this. Cam nut; ???? Nothing needed- clean threads. Rocker shaft nuts; ???? Nothing needed- clean threads. External nuts, valve covers, etc; ????? None of the exterior case nuts need any special treatment. Install them dry. The case sealant used on the case parting line or gaskets (valve covers, chain boxes, intermediate shaft cover, etc.) avoid the need for any sealants on the fasteners. However, some of the lower valve cover studs are through-holes that are open to the splashing oil inside the cam housing. That open hole allows oil to wick its way along the stud threads. So a few studs in the the cam carrier can benefit from having their threads treated with sealant. The sealant prevents a drop of oil hanging off the nylock nut. |
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Assuming we're talking about Loctite 243, I've never had a problem with it w.r.t. fasteners coming undone. So long as the both halves of the threads are cleaned properly, it works fine IMO. Yes, if a fastener is removed, it does need another thorough wire-brushing and solvent cleaning before re-locking (or the internal thread cleaning with a thread cleaner), but so long as you don't drown the fastener with it (!), then this isn't a big hassle. |
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Yes! |
great info, i got a little reversal work to do
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May be of some use, snapped whilst in my mates garage the other week...didn't quite get the overlap right but the final one may fill in the gaps...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...194762D94F.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...C7157ED235.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...C64D7F4C34.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...7C42B8AA7E.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...51F84E0E14.jpg |
Here's the Henkel (UK) version in the Loctite info list. Available as a PDF.
Loctite Literature - Henkel |
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