Have a qulified shop check the line bore, most all need it .
The bearings for line bore are expensive and sometimes hard to find.
There are several updates that need to be done
I do stress need.
Once all done and installed these are great engines but do not make the mistake the factory made.
They ran them HOT.
Too HOT

You're referring to updates like...? Case savers, oil bypass?

Yes
I also recommend cam oil restrictors after break in .

Can anyone tell from the earlier photo if the exhaust is indeed 1975 thermal reactor exhaust?

What is the build date of the car? Also, the exhaust manifolds are date coded on the bottom and should be a few months before the build date of the car if they are the originals. And yes, they are not the TRs

Thermal have a very distinct look .
You have typical factory exhaust.

No thermals..
 

I'll check the manifolds for the date coded when I get back into the shop. Build date of the car is... I believe... 7/74?

I'm hoping the non-TR exhaust is good news for head studs.

The exhaust is pretty rusted, especially at the connecting points. I guess I'm wondering if it is worth salvaging since I was headed for SSI when I was under the impression I had TRs to dispose of ~ I'm guessing SSI's are still an improvement over the factory.

I'll update the thread tonight with photos after I finish pulling off the valve covers and timing covers.

Thank you to you both~

More progress:
 

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1458015769.jpg

Today began with removing the oil cooler.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1458015700.jpg

Four nuts and it slid right out, but I was concerned about the integrity of the transmission bolts after the welded edge that was supporting the yoke disappeared. I grabbed the cherry-picker and remounted the engine, minus the spacers I had fabricated to make up the difference between the case surface and the oil cooler.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1458015821.jpg

The yoke was now able to be reattached to sit flush with the case.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1458015942.jpg

I began disassembling the right side of the motor's valve covers. When I had both covers off, I checked the torque of the head bolts. A few were loose, as you'll see in my later notes. Here's a shot of the right-side disassembled:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1458016154.jpg

I was more concerned with the side that had the melted-looking lower valve cover. I got both of the timing covers removed..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1458016375.jpg
Right.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1458016404.jpg
Left.

..and moved on to the worse looking side:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1458016451.jpg

And, naturally, found this:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1458016643.jpg

..on the middle head. Oh well.. finally, my notes to finish the night:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1458016729.jpg

Yup.
Looks like you have an unmolested 2.7 and have to do the updates.
and you need Hyd tensioners.
Turbo valve covers if not there already.
Save yourself the grief and use RSR "O" rings in the rocker shafts upon re assy.

looks like the tensioners have been molested with some sort of nut and bolt deviance

Dont be scared to replaced worn "Hooked" sprockets and the chains.

You are referring to this..?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1458068196.jpg

..definitely looks suspect.

The hydraulic tensioner is the Carrera tensioner, correct?

Turbo valve covers, new chain and sprockets, and RSR o-rings have been on the to-do list.

I'm really trying to cover all the bases here, so thank you so much for the continued feedback. My 'fear', if there is one at this point, is not replacing ENOUGH. It'd be a real shame to take the motor apart and not do it right (like whoever was in this engine before).

Now waiting on my crows foot and P202.

My next engine will have cotton thread between case halves along with proper sealer.

You will need guides and valve work.
New plastic chain ramps.
Shuffle pin case with the other updates.

Don't forget the Raceware head studs, washers, nuts. The studs are exposed and orig dilivar studs oxidize and break. With the case savers and new studs, you won't be afraid to torque the heads properly

I have always just called them Hyd tensioners and it is a common upgrade.
They may have originated with the Carrera, IDK

Any machine shop that specialize in Porsche will be familiar with the upgrades.
You can not skimp here.

AfterB - I am glad you said that - I always thought that was a good idea and is a common practice on vertically split cases of opposed aircraft engines such as Lycoming and Continental. Silk thread is also an option. The aircraft guys know what they are doing but this idea has been poo-poo'd by a number of P-mechanics when I asked. I never agreed with them, but I am no mechanic.
Rob

I am not sure but I think cotton swells better than silk?
It works in boats...
Next, Do not follow too many aircraft procures. They are very antiquated.
I have no idea why it is poo-pooed, but there is followers, leaders and get to hell out of my way people
I just do what i have to do.
Like i said, i can do two valves for ya and i am over next door.
I have no desire to work on valves all day every day.......I am close enough to crazy already