Tips for sealing case myself with no help
 

Henry's sealant kit has arrived and I'm waiting on some through-bolt washers and perimeter nuts but the case is cleaned up and ready to go. I'm just not sure when I'll have time to get a helping hand and frankly I like doing things myself. Can this be done easily as a newbie? Any tips or suggestions?

I'll be torqueing the through-bolts down without the O-rings at first to buy some time and going back to remove each one at a time to add the O-rings and retorque.

Question about the application of sealers--the p-fixit video shows a thin bead along the case but others have just rolled on a thin layer on the drivers side case (without the studs side). Whats the correct way?

Thanks

I spray off the sealing surfaces with carb cleaner
If I'm using 574 it just takes a bead inside the bolt holes perimeter
If I use triple-bond, the instructions are to apply to both flanges
If you go through the drill of torquing the through bolts without the O rings, you're just wasting your time.
Bruce

What Bruce said.
At least you know you have a limited time window when using 574.
But its doable as long as you work quickly and concentrated.
So lock the door and but the telephone into the fridge.
Organise yourself with all the parts you need and all the tools so you do not have to search and put the exact number of parts you need onto the bench.
If you want extra peace of mind do a test assembly (dry, no Orings (bear in mind they will need extra time)) to check your time. That way you can also check if the crank binds when halves are torqued.

Get all of your nuts, washers and bolts sorted, counted and ready to go. Also make sure that you have your torque specs handy and your tools ready. It doesn't sound like much but you will have a small table full of stuff.

Have two people when you go to seal it....

Ask me why...I did the whole thing myself and after trying to get the case together one of the oil pump seals fell onto the floor (green ring) without me knowing. I sat back with a cold beer marveling at my hard work...and then looked on the floor... Dohhh stupid thing was on the floor...Set me back awhile as I had to re clean etc

best done with two people..can be done but not recommended.


Cheers

I fitted the crank and torqued the through bolts to get a feel for the assembly process.

I laid out all of the parts and pre-lubed the o-rings on the through bolts. I used the three recommended sealants. All bolts and nuts were neatly organized into pairs.

Then I got my son to help me.

Two people, but you are the lead. I explained what was going to happen and what I wanted home to do.

It worked out well.

You don't want to untorque the through bolts after you sealed the two halves together. The theory is the loosened bolts may cause the bond to pop between the mains. So I made sure everything was right the first time.

A second person is there to help take the load off and let's you take a little more time during that critical moment when the two halves come together.

I'm sure I could have done it all by myself. But I'm glad I didn't.

I put a couple dabs of aviation permatex on the oil pump seals to keep them from falling off...been there before.
Bruce

Which do you guys tighten first? case through bolts or perimeter nuts ?

You need to tighten the perimeter first because you're activating the 574 and you need to pull the halves together.
The through bolts are a much more tedious assembly.
Bruce

First time engine rebuild........
 

JonT,

I learned a lot from Bruce's advices and still keep in touch with him regularly specially when I am in a predicament. I am currently doing my 15th engine rebuild and still learns new trick every time. My advice to you is to prepare everything you need and do a couple of practice runs without sealant first. Pretend that you are doing the final assembly and you will find where trouble or problem could occur.

In my case, since I am not strong enough to lift and carry the crank shaft with the connecting rods over the waiting crankcase halve, I have to improvise a device to hold the crankshaft and connecting rods over the crankcase halve then lower the assembly in place. Do several practice runs and you will be fine. Practice makes you better and ready for the job.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1455074133.jpg.

Tony

Having someone to help guide the left case half when mating the two halves is probably the biggest help, IMO. If you're using 574 on the webs and threebond on the perimeter, you should have plenty of time, even if doing the rest yourself.

I just applied the web and perimeter sealant to the left side (don't forget the IMS bearing, though)

Im about to do this by myself too. I dont have the rod holders, but they do stand up on their own. Im thinking about having someone present in case a rod starts to fall while Im laying down the left half, they can re-balance it.

I like the idea of a trial run, so I can see how these rode really do balance ;)

I did it this way. 574 only in the mains. Three bond on the perlmeter. It worked great. No leaks!

Always torque the through bolts first. You want the crankshaft to be happy. The two rear dowel pins and number 8 bearing should ensure the mains line up properly.

That is why I did a trial assembly without adhesive. To make sure the crankshaft rotated freely as well as get a feel for how long it takes to install and sequence torque all of the through bolts.

Then finish torquing the less critical perimeter nuts. Any case shifting will happen on the less critical surfaces verses the case pushing the middle mains out of alignment. They don't have dowel pins.

Take a sharpie and label the through bolt torque sequence (1,2,3..) on the case next to each nut. Wipe it off with acetone when done.

Great info guys thank you! Now if that brown truck would just get here....

I still have to find some clear vinyl tubing that fits the through bolts and a expo marker cap for sliding on the Viton O-rings (trick from the Pcarfixit rebuild video).

Getting closer now with the oil pump installed, bearings installed and lubed, nose bearing pulley seal and o-ring installed, and crank lubed up. Getting my through bolts and other parts ready. Now on to a practice run and check to see how the crank spins with case halves torqued.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1457889336.jpghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1457889652.jpg

I suggest pulling those oil pump seals for a dry run at torquing down the case.

Oil them when you actually seal the case.

thanks dtw. does the oil help them find their correct seating position? The pfixit video does not show oiling these seals during installation.

I think the oil / assy lube whatever is just something sticky that keeps those seals where they are supposed to be as you lower down the other half on top of them. I kind of "glued" mine down with a little assy lube and it gave me great peace of mind.

You can do this process by yourself. Dry runs are essential.. you can use one of those dry runs to do a plastigauge check or similar. I would urge you to just do the o-rings all at once.. you can pre load the through bolts with half of them, and it really doesn't take that long to install them and torque them down all at once. I wrote in sharpie all over my case.. tightening sequence, torque figures, etc. which kept things super easy and I had no need to refer to the book or anything while in the heat of battle.

Lastly to the person who is hoping their rods will remain "erect" during the mating ritual.. I guarantee they will tip at the least opportune time. Fab up something to keep them standing.. even a straight piece of coat hanger resting on the bottom of the case and masking taped to the small end of the rod can be enough to do the job..

thanks IXjamesXI for the tips. I have fabbed some rod holders out of pipe strapping and will do a couple dry runs to help predict hang ups. Might even time the 2nd one to see what my flex-factor is time-wise.