HELP and advice! Major mess-up! Mated my case halves today; was not all as planned
 

Three things happened:

1. Over-troqued the through-bolts: set my digital torque wrench to 35 ft-lbs. vs 35 Nm (so about 10 ft-lbs. over).

I have not reverted this yet, do I need to do so immediately?

2. While torquing the perimeter bolts on the case halves, I noticed one bolt was missing! So now the case is probably not sealed.

If I could get this bolt in now, would it even be worth trying to torque it, since the case is sealed without it torqued in that area?

3. I realized the 15mm nut for the timing chain area I had was the wrong thread pitch. Hardware store gave me the wrong one and I must have check on the wrong area.

thoughts, input, and advice are very much appreciated!

that 45 minute window really stressed me out.

Ok, this is tough to swallow but start over. You haven't lost anything but some sealant at this point but if you put the whole thing together and you have a leak it is an expensive venture to reseal it.

If you don't like the results. Do it over. Sounds like you are not happy with this build. That feeling won't easily go away. Better to do over then wonder why you didn't.

yeah, already starting to take it apart.

you think case or through bolts could be damaged?

No, over torquing by 10 lbs shouldn't do any damage.

When you are ready for reassembly set out all of your nuts, washers and bolts in advance. Count everything so that you know nothing is missing. Have all of your sealants handy too.

It is also helpful to write down all of your torque settings so that you don't have to dig through the book to find them.

I actually disagree with disassembly but my opinion is also influenced by what the ambient temperature has been of the engine and how much assembly lube was used (and where).

it's not a fun process for sure. removing crank and cleaning all these webs.

I'm not sure if I used enough sealant, but the temp in my shop isn't very hot. maybe 60f.

the sealant is still wet and sticky after a couple hours.

I have some pics of the sealant left of the case after taking them apart.

the through bolt o-rings were also pushed through the holes a bit. maybe from over torquing?

If the loctite is still liquid when you pull it apart just recoat and retorque. Remember that the loctite dries only when the air is removed so anything out the outside will always remain liquid. Putting too much on is not an issue as it will not harden and will be drained after you run your break in oil.

I used ThreeBond 1184 on the perimeter, so it's kinda sticky now.

also the loctitie dried up in bearing notches, so I got to clean those now too.

going to need to remove the oil pump and intermediate shaft and put this through the parts cleaner.

thanks for you advice!

Why do you have locktite in the bearing notches?

you can see what I mean in this pic

https://www.dropbox.com/s/93egrlwv3n...jpg?dl=0&raw=1

I am not familiar with that trick.
Unless that is a new proven method I would not do that.
However, you will sleep better doing the whole thing over ....
But check on the Loctite in the bearing notch.
AFAIK it will do nothing. The bearing gets seated as the two halves press it into its saddle.
The tabs are a mechanical lock to stop it from spinning.
The Loctite will take up some space.

and here is what the viton orings looked like after I took the recently torqued bolts out; is this normal?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/1vt8nrq5l3...jpg?dl=0&raw=1

It was just a manifestation from the loctite applied on the bearing webs there, I guess it leaked in?

OH! OK , now I understand .

You did it right, locktite on the block webbing is correct.

You lost nothing but 8 hours ......Could be worse.
I still do not understand the stuff in the main bearing saddles..

Are the case holes chamfered?

One side of my case was chamfered the other side was not. I added chamfers and I have no leaks or extruded orings.

Id never known to look for chamfers on the case, only the washers. but after reading this thread, it's clear some prefer them :)

going to check if it's one side, or none. I dont recall seeing them, but it seems the bolt end that should be on these case chamfers if they're one sided.

Yes that is one of them. The small chamfer on the case holes compliment the washer'a chamfer. They provide a good shaped feature for the orings to fit into.

As I found, one side was chamfered from the factory, the other wasn't. Go figure! They must have been in the process of converting over.

LHS Case through-bolt holes needed chamfers.

AND the RHS holes behind the oil cooler.

12.7-12.9mm OD of the chamfer. (.5" diameter)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1455502497.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1455502695.jpg

If you look closely in the upper right hand corner of the second picture, you can see one of the through-bolt holes that came chamfered from the factory. I measured this chamfer, and machined to match using a chamfer bit and a hand drill to control the process. Go slow! Check often.

thanks for the info. a bit worried those bits could fall down and clog an oil passage in the through holes!?

You could have just loosened one at a time and retorqued. Why is there loctite 574 (hate that stuff) on the main webs? You don't need any sealer there.

It's supposed to glue the webs together and prevent shuffling. Not sure I see the need for it on a street engine and if I was building a race engine I'd just have it shuffle pinned or bushed around the through bolts. But it gets done a lot I guess, I just have a hard time seeing that stuff so close to the bearings and the through bolt holes. I guess it's suppose to dissolve in oil so no harm if it gets into the galley? I'd like to buy some and mix it with oil to see what happens.

Mag Cases NEED shuffle pins , Al is a nice option.
I so doubt anything you can pry apart at a later date will or would stop "shuffling " in use.

Yeah, I've questioned the need for it too (574 on webs), but used it anyways.

Per Henry Schmidt's instructions in a well-read thread on case sealing Loctite 574 is used on the webs and threebond 1184 on the perimeter. This is Henry's tried and true method for sealing up a case and some methods were debated in the thread but a consensus was never met (if that's even possible on the internet).

The webs are pressurized oil passages. They feed the piston squirters. So there is a potential to leak between the mated mains.

Wprater

Yes you do have to clean out all the little bits. But that is true of any used case covered in 30 years of dirt and grime. The little bits of al are easily cleaned out because they aren't embedded in the surface.

My 930, which was never opened up until now, shows no evidence of any sealer on the main webs. Plenty on the perimeter but that's it. I would think that if the web faces are far enough out of parallel to cause oil leakage between them then there are other major problems with the case? It's hard to argue against the success that Henry has had with his method though.

this is the same with mine, the LHS is chamfered, RHS is not. I might think about doing your trick.. if I can find a hand drill tomorrow :)

About the camfered holes for the through bolts in cases. I allso had that on mine. Long story short: my case halves was of not only different serial numbers, but one was from -83 and didn't have the camfered holes, the other was from -87 and had the camfered holes. So my gestimation is that Porsche incorporated this modification sometime between here. I allso camfered the holes on my case halve from -83.
Good luck with the rest of youre build.

Not a big deal to stress about. Just take it apart, clean, then redo. It's not as though you're at assembly step 26 and have to redo step 2. Good to have a check list as you assemble so you don't forget to install something, like piston rings.

Remember to confirm crank rotates smoothly while tightening the through bolts/nuts.

Sherwood